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Icicle Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch, The T 
Bumper Belay S 
Canadians On Horseback S 
Cocaine Connection S 
Cocaine Crack T 
Forking Crack T 
I Didn't Exhale S 
R & D T 
Ramp, The T 
Spaghetti Sauce T 
Tober T,S 

Canadians On Horseback 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Hicks, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: kurthicks on Oct 10, 2016

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Climber on the last pitch of Canadians on Horsebac...

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Description 

Canadians on Horseback is a fully bolted sport climb on the right edge of Icicle Buttress. It was equipped for climbers new to multi-pitch climbing and is bolted for the 5.6 leader. Although it is possible to link pitches on this route, it is best done in four pitches with the last being the highlight.

Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of Bumper Belay at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class

Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6

Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.

Location 

Begin on the very right edge of Icicle Buttress--about 30 feet right of Bumper Belay. Scramble up a dirty path to a small ledge with a belay bolt.

Protection 

9 quickdraws, 60 meter rope


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