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Canada Rock Climbing 


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Location: 59.7121, -112.5 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 1, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the descent with Bug...

O Canada! 

It would be as difficult to sum up the climbing potential in Canada just as it would be to sum up that in the United States, unless you wanted to use broad terms like LOTS. From sea cliffs to urban crags, high altitude to bouldering, almost every type of climbing is available (except desert sandstone perhaps).

Rather than trying to describe it in this overview, let's describe it area by area and route by route, right here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 33.1 miles from here

7,643 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',914],['3 Stars',2754],['2 Stars',2397],['1 Star',782],['Bomb',55]
['<=5.6',549],['5.7',394],['5.8',535],['5.9',652],['5.10',1612],['5.11',1067],['5.12',622],['5.13',170],['>=5.14',37],['',0],['<=V1',447],['V2-3',229],['V4-5',338],['V6-7',176],['V8-9',99],['V10-11',32],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Canada

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Canada:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
North East Ridge   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Calculus Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Star Chek   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   The Gorge : Galaxy Buttress
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Chief : The Apron
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Chief : The Sheriff's Badge
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   The Chief : Grand Wall Base Area
Bulletheads East   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   The Bulletheads : Bulletheads, Central
Sunset Strip   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Crime of the Century   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Canada

Featured Route For Canada
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pipeline a very striking line

Pipeline 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Slhanay (The Squaw)
The guidebook calls it, "A magnificant squeeze chimney in a majestic curving dihedral." Climb Birds of Prey onto the slim ramp, and belay. Continue up the steepening ramp, and belay in the offwidth. Then the follow the beautiful sweeping "pipeline" off-width pitch for about 170 ft to the top. This is no a squeeze chimney, I am small and did not fit in it. If you have larger feet you will get heel toe jams. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Canada Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West ...
BETA PHOTO: View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile in the Rockies!
Profile in the Rockies!
Rock Climbing Photo: Agawa Canyon
Agawa Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Rock Climbing Photo: Canada!
Canada!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kokanee Beer.
Kokanee Beer.

Comments on Canada Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Sep 13, 2007
Anybody have any info on New Brunswick climbing and/or ice climbing?
By skinner
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 15, 2007
In western Canada, (British Columbia & Alberta) Squamish and the Bugaboos are exceptional- world class destinations. However.. if you are able to get your head around the chossy limestone the makes up the majority of peaks, the infinite number of previously unclimbed lines could keep you occupied for several lifetimes.
By cliff thomas
Apr 15, 2009
I am planning a climbing trip to Banff. Am interested in beta about time of year to go, places to stay on the cheap, moderate climbing and perhaps an opportunity to find partners or good roped solo routes in that area. Thank you
Cliff Thomas
thomasci@msn.com
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 16, 2009
Cliff,

The time of year depends on what you want to do. The summer alpine season (all the classic north face ice routes) are best in August and September. Nice low altitude rock, mostly sport, can be found in the canyons around Canmore: Heart Creek, Cougar Canyon, Grassi Lakes, etc. The season for these is probably May to October. There are many moderate scrambles (Table Mtn., Cascade, Lady MacDonald) and climbs (Ha Ling, Yamnuska, etc.).

There are campgrounds in Banff and Lake Louise, and probably in Canmore. The Alpine Club of Canada's clubhouse is in Canmore and is a great place to stay. I think there are reciprocal agreements with other alpine clubs, or you can buy a membership, which can be worth it if you're staying a while. It's also a good place to meet people.

Hopefully you'll get some more detailed information from others. It has been a while since I've road-tripped there. You might also want to post in the forums.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 17, 2009
Joe M sorry I'm a year and a half later but there is actually excellent rock and ice climbing in N-B.
The rock climbing is mostly trad in a wonderful granite setting called Cochrane Lane and the ice is just everywhere!

check out climbeasterncanada.com or beta-source.com/ for pics, info etc.
By curt hegel
Mar 21, 2010
good place for info/beta finding partners, etc. is gravsports-ice.com run by Will Gadd. Ice season is running out, but the alpine/rock is starting soon.
By Matt Allshouse
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 13, 2010
I just won two free passes on Canada North Airlines...Anyone know good ice routes around Yellowkife,Norman Wells, or Iqaluit?

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