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Can you bail after the fierst pitch on matinee
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Jun 10, 2016
Wondering if it's feasible to bail off matinee after P1 climbing with a partner who may not be able to follow and wanted to know if Getting up P2 was mandatory or if there was a tree/ chockstone at the end of P1. or even a down climb. crakatoa
From Boulder,Co
Joined May 5, 2014
31 points
Jun 10, 2016
Though it has been years (decades, really) since I have been on it, but my memory is that the first pitch is a traverse to the top of a huge block that can be easily reached or exited by a scramble from the other side. Alan Rubin
Joined Apr 6, 2015
0 points
Jun 10, 2016
Im going to say no.
For p1 you need to place directionals for your second when belaying on the ledge. Getting them back may be difficult if your partner cant get there.
IMO the proud way to do the climb is in one nice long pitch.
Mind your rope drag and its all good.
TLyons
From Lynbrook, NY
Joined Aug 3, 2015
110 points
Jun 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Vultaggio leads the title route at Five and ...
If you clip the gear short but leave long slings hanging, your second should be able to pull through on gear. The troubles are over by the time they reach the pin (for your second's sake make sure to clip it even though it is easy terrain), and if they are entertaining following the pitch at technical 10d they shouldn't have any problem with the last bit at 5.8 or so (if I recall) where a fall would be of consequence to the blocky belay.

From there you can prob traverse from the blocks through the blackout and either finish on that or keep going to the Betty tree. Either way it sounds like a little creativity can get you through.
chris_vultaggio
From The Gunks
Joined Dec 22, 2008
399 points
Jun 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo op from the 4th(?) belay of Led by Sheep, Ar...
Yes, there is a 4th class scramble left to get onto Betty, then either continue up to the P1 belay or downclimb to the base. The only tricky part would be climbing around the line of people on Betty.

Like Chris said, you can sling your gear so your follower can aid through the traverse. Also, I think falling off during the traverse would swing your partner onto easier terrain, so they should be able to climb up to the belay without too much trouble.
Stimpy
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 10, 2011
13 points


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