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The Main Cliff
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2 in the Bush 
5th of November T,S 
Access Route T 
Can the Jingo T 
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Can the Jingo 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1 PG13 [details]
FA: Mack Johnson
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: nhclimber on Jul 23, 2013

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Ripped gear!

Description 

Start at the lowest point on the face and trend up and right following a nice crack. Place gear under the roof and using the right hand arête move up to place or clip small wires in the seam then make a hard (v5ish) boulder problem to hit a horizontal crack, protect and climb out to a bolted anchor. Or, if aiding, climb out seam to horizontal crack and to anchors. It is possible to tr the line by climbing the access route (5.3) and scrambling to the anchor.

Location 

Last route on the main face before the gulley that splits the main cliff and the dump face.

Protection 

Thin cams and small wires


Photos of Can the Jingo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Searle seconding on the FA of Can the Jingo 7...
Rich Searle seconding on the FA of Can the Jingo 7...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying can the jingo
Trying can the jingo
Rock Climbing Photo: Can the Jingo
Can the Jingo

Comments on Can the Jingo Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013

I haven't had my coffee yet, but I am having a hard time understanding the grade rating. V5 - 5.10 - A1? Is it a 5.12 that some people aid with mandatory 5.10 free climbing?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 23, 2013

Free project, this will be a great route and addition to this crag. Myself and a few others have put in a little time. Be careful, I have skipped and come very close to the ground several times on this route falling from the crux and placing gear before the crux. I have also ripped and sheared gear on this route, but with work it is safe and awesome.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 23, 2013

Damn mark, that was fast. Old guide book gives it the grade. Climb up a little at .10 then pound some iron, a1. I have never bothered as an aid climb, so I gave a free description of the route.

We are trying it free at maybe mid 12 r-ish. I am weak and need some more time, also thought it was presumptuous of me to put prospective grade...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013

OK. Now I go get some coffee. Good Luck!

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