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The Frigate
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Can Can 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jul 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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climbing over the roof


One of the better 5.5 leads at the Lake: nice moves, good pro, wonderful summit.

On the Southeast side of the Frigate, a crack system heads up between the two summits. From the base, move up a dihedral a little to the right, find some good pro, then move left and up into an alcove. Kick high! Getting into the alcove is probably the technical crux.

In the alcove, get some more bomber gear. Kick high! and pull around the little roof. Head up to the summit on the right (North).


On the Southeast side of the Frigate. "Walk off" (scramble) to the North.


Medium to large nuts, a couple of medium sized hexes or cams.

Photos of Can Can Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shane cleaning up after Dan lead-climbed
Shane cleaning up after Dan lead-climbed
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric P. leading "Can Can" on the Frigate...
Eric P. leading "Can Can" on the Frigate...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike, pulling around yet another little roof
Mike, pulling around yet another little roof
Rock Climbing Photo: assessing the next move...
assessing the next move...
Rock Climbing Photo: My belayer rappelling
My belayer rappelling
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fuzzy low on route.
Fuzzy low on route.

Comments on Can Can Add Comment
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By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Another great lead that's easy to protect. After setting pro for up and downward pull before starting off, the 1st piece I use is a #1 tricam (pinky) in a small pocket just before heading off left for the alcove below the slightly, overhanging fist-size crack. Moving up and into the crack (a couple of moves) is the crux of the climb. Down climb is off of the back side of the summit into the large gap between the Frigate and the main bluff (see unnamed walk off). From there a short traverse to north takes you to easy ledges (steps) to get back down to your pack.
By Chicagio
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you approach this from the northwest side (previous commenter refers to this as the walk-off, for leaders), it is easy enough climbing that you can set up top rope. A threaded sling and a #6 & #10 hex will do. The little roof move is a blast! Don't disturb any frogs when threading!
By Scott Greenhalgh
From: New Hartford, Iowa
Jun 1, 2014

There is a fun variation going through the right crack out of the roof in the 5.7 to 5.8 range.

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