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Campus board training
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Aug 9, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
I start campus board training for a trip to Red Rock NV, and guys this train give extreme results in just 3 weeks of training I gane double power on my harms and shoulders, anyone have some suggestion on reps and training? Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Aug 9, 2016
Rock Climber's Training Manual, by the Anderson Bros. Brandt Allen
From Joshua Tree, Cal
Joined Jan 12, 2004
307 points
Aug 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of the bottle
Hi Brandt, hope things are good...Not familiar with that book, will look it up. Are the secrets of a long long climbing career in there?

Walter. I have had good results with the training specified by Eric Horst. I think it was in Training For Climbing where he has a very specific prescription for hang boarding.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
363 points
Aug 11, 2016
Hello Guy, the Andersons' book is primarily aimed at young hard sport climbers; a "Novice" trainee is described as one who climbs below the 5.12 level(!) I have been able to dumb it down to my level and it has been very helpful. It includes a good balance of general scientific understanding and practical specific training schedules. There are chapters solely devoted to both hangboard and campus board training.

Whether it will make it possible for me to keep improving into my senior years only time will tell!
Brandt Allen
From Joshua Tree, Cal
Joined Jan 12, 2004
307 points
Aug 11, 2016
Walter Galli wrote:
I start campus board training for a trip to Red Rock NV, and guys this train give extreme results in just 3 weeks of training I gane double power on my harms and shoulders, anyone have some suggestion on reps and training?

If you double your power in 3 weeks, you should be giving us your rep and training. Not the other way around.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
193 points
Aug 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Aleks
climbing friend,

you grip 2 up with upper downward crushing crimp, while holding undercling on lowest rung with Uberklïngen grip of power, creating "ring of power" of compression on upper rung and lower rung, all while thrusting your meat strongly up along the board.

In this way you will train entire power meat chain from hands and forearms to chest and back, max power, 2 weeks quadrupling.
Aleks Zebastian
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2014
162 points
Aug 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
divnamite wrote:
If you double your power in 3 weeks, you should be giving us your rep and training. Not the other way around.

Ok here you are,,, 30 second steady with harms flex, than 1 min rest. Repeat 4 times. Then push up slow 5 times 1 min rest do it 3 times, then steady arms stretch for 30 second on the finger.... 4 series of push up from the floor,,,Repeat 5 times a week, I really improve with this work out..
Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Sep 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: me
???? "steady arm stretch" are you using the campus board to do deadhangs on?

If you aren't working explosively on the campus board, then you aren't using it for what it is designed for. Certainly you can deadhang on it, and move rung to rung "slowly" (statically you mean?) but this isn't training "power" in the terms that the climbing training literature is discussing.

Unless I've read incorrectly between your posts, then I apologize.
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points


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