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Camping Under the Influence T 
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Samarai Loving T 
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Smell the Meat T 
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Switch, The T 
T-Bones Tonight T 
Tofu Crack T 
Top Sirloin T 
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Two Timer T 
Two Timer II T,TR 
Unknown long corner T 
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Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 

Camping Under the Influence 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???
Season: south-facing
Page Views: 3,296
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Steven sending

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it. Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances. Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right. This is the crux. Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.


to the right, and around the corner from T-Bones/Tubesteaks area. twin splitters on either side of a pillar, up to a steep and eventually right leaning finger crack.


(camalot sizes) three .4, four .5, four .75, three 1, two 2. Maybe a runner or two for the transition around the starting pillar.

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By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This thing was originally rated 5.11+ and that was with boxy shoes and heavy cams.
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ignore the chains when they're dangling in your face! It's harder to clip them there than it is to bust out two more moves and reach the crispy jug just above.
By Alex Shainman
Oct 26, 2011

...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route!

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