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Campground Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 4,677
Submitted By: jason malczyk on Aug 16, 2007  with updates from Dillbag

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Top rope climb up Campground Crack.

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Wandering crack of varying sizes with a bolt near top. Three bolt anchor at top of formation, recommended to bring some static line to extend anchor (to prevent further rope damage to rock).
    Also, the face to the left of the climb can be top roped (face to the right should not be climbed as it contains petroglyphs)


    Located in the middle of the Williams Bottom campground.


    #0.75 to #4 Camelots. There is only a three bolt anchor or you can walk off the route.

    Photos of Campground Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan's first free solo
    Jonathan's first free solo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Right side crack from the bottom
    BETA PHOTO: Right side crack from the bottom
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan belay from above & Jimmy hangin taking sn...
    Jonathan belay from above & Jimmy hangin taking sn...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of "Campground Crack" (the crack...
    BETA PHOTO: Picture of "Campground Crack" (the crack...

    Comments on Campground Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jonathan Amburgey
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jan 19, 2009

    Beta: As of Jan. 18th 2009, the crack has one bolt with a rappel ring a few feet below the summit. On top, there are 3 bolts (in a triangular pattern) for setting up a top-rope, though they are located on the back side away from the face. To set up a tope-rope with these, you need to extend the TR onto the edge (approximately 12 feet or so from the bolts), or use the single bolt with a rappel ring. Be aware there will be rope drag if using the top anchors (i.e., the 3 bolts) without sufficient extension to the edge, and there are rope groves everywhere on top from past TR's (not to mention unsightly graffiti). The rock is very soft and sandy on top, and given the wavyness of the upper section, the rope can become lodged in the crack (as my partner and I discovered despite extending the TR - we opted to use the 3 bolts rather than the single for added safety).

    By John Braun
    From: Hendersonville, NC
    Apr 17, 2011

    The bolts are, as noted above, about 12ft from the edge. It is basically impossible to toprope the route due to rope grooves unless you extend the master point. This requires ~80ft of cord if you're doing it the conventional way.

    Fun climb, though.
    By Cody Drool
    May 21, 2011

    There is a bolt next to a ledge near the top where we top belayed from to lessen the rope friction. Tricky to belay but was a fun interesting climb. This was also my friends first free solo!
    By Ryan N
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Oct 13, 2012

    Great route that's away from the crowds on potash and in the shade for most of the day. Not to be missed when climbing on potash. Anchors are probably 15ft from climbs edge. If TR, which I wouldn't recommend, bring lots of material to extend anchor.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    May 1, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Setting up a TR was super easy for us. 3 cordelettes and some biners and we had the power point over the edge, the rope ran freely, and the rope stayed out of the crack.

    It's a fun little climb with good rock quality to start, then it slowly deteriorates the higher you climb. I second the gear selection: .75 to a #4 camalot. Bolt protects the exit moves.

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