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Camp Bird Road

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Blood and Spit T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Chopped Suey T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Czech Mate T 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Just Another Duncan Route T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
Lola's Leap S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Paco's Chewy  S 
Racing Stripe (Left) T 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Subterfuge T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Vulgar Display of Power T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Camp Bird Road Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.98459, -107.70051 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,912
Administrators: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 30, 1999
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Sunset view of Camp Bird road.

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>


When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.


Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. The Troutman/Rodent, M5 R, 5p, 800', gear.
D. Negligent Behavior, WI5- M6 R? 7p, 1000'.
E. Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard), 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
F. Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene, M5-6 PG-13, 5p, 1000', gear.
G. Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Rusty Cage, M7 PG-13, 5p, 800', bolts, pins, & gear.
I. Vulgar Display of Power, M6, 1p, 220', bolts & gear.
J. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
K. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
L. Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It, IV 5.10 WI3 M6 R, 7p, 1300', gear.
M. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
N. Racing Stripe (Left), WI4 M4-5, 2p, 300', gear.
O. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
P. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
Q. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
RQ. Hairy Devil, WI5+ M6-7, 3p, 400', pins, screws, gear.
S. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

T. Subterfuge, M6-7+, 3p, 400', screws, gear, & bolts.

U. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Lola's Leap, M6-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Paco's Chewy , M5+, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
I. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

J. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
K. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
L. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
M. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

N. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

O. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
P. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
Q1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
Q2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

R. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

S. Chopped Suey, 5.7 M4 WI4 PG-13, 1p, 160', gear & screws.
T. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
U. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.
V. Czech Mate, M5, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

W. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
X. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
Y. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

Z. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

AA. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
BB. Unknown, M7, .

CC. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

DD. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
EE. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
FF. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
GG. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Blood and Spit, M8 R, 2p, 250', gear.

G. Just Another Duncan Route aka Just Another Duncan Route, WI4-5 M6, 5p, 500', gear.

H. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
I. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.

Getting There 

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.4 miles from here

56 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Camp Bird Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Camp Bird Road:
Skylight   WI4+ M4-5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches   
Choppo's Chimney   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 190'   
99 Problems   M5-     Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rusty Cage   M7 PG13     Trad, Mixed, 5 pitches, 800'   
Wake Up Call   M5+ R     Trad, Mixed, 5 pitches, 900'   
Racing Stripe (Right)   WI5 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 800'   
Tourist Trap   WI4+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   
Chock Up Another One   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   
Mile 4   M6     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 30'   
Killer Pillar   WI5-6 M5+ R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch   
Senator Gulch   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Talisman   WI5-6 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches   
Chockstone Chimney   WI3-4 R     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   
Slip Sliding Away   WI4-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   
Slippery When Wet   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   
Bird Brain Boulevard   WI5 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 7 pitches   
The Ribbon   WI4     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches   
Just Another Duncan Route   WI4-5 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 500'   
Dirty Minds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R     Trad, Mixed, 4 pitches, 800'   
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 8 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Camp Bird Road

Featured Route For Camp Bird Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordo leading the crux on 2/21/05.

The Ribbon WI4  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Camp Bird Road
Not much can be said about this area classic that hasn't been said before. One glance and you won't be able to get her out of your mind. You may court some of her friends across the valley, but deep down inside you'll feel guilty because she's the one you want. Listen closely and you'll hear her Siren Song. But as history has taught us so well, beauty comes at a price. Only the wise man will pass safely.Approach cautiously from the Senator Gulch parking lot, and then only with a reassuring avala...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Camp Bird Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.
Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Talisman in fat conditions.
The Talisman in fat conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Skylight.
Rock Climbing Photo: View towards Ouray.
View towards Ouray.
Rock Climbing Photo: Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney...
Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney...

Comments on Camp Bird Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2001
Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2002
Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?"
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 8, 2008
Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet.
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Feb 8, 2008
By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray?
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Feb 26, 2013
Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine.

Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past. Someone took our packs (which were tucked away well off the road) and filled them to the brim with snow while we climbed Skylight, soaking my partners camera gear. We were the only climbers in the area all day (though many trucks went back and forth from the mine), meaning someone went out of their way. I believe this was the second day after the "new" sign had been erected.
By doligo
Mar 2, 2013
+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left.

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