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The Headwall
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Cameltoe 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Herbert, Manny Rangel
Page Views: 2,897
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Dec 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jake, committing to the crux throw.

Description 

Going from the undercling, and setting it up right, is the crux. I have hit it with either hand but I think the right hand high is best. The jug is incut and perfect. How much better does it get?

Location 

At the end of the Headwall, just before the Icebox dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts, all at good spots. Rap from slings.


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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 31, 2009

A key block fell off that helped you set up for the undercling and throw for the jug on the cameltoe. This is now harder, hint: use kneebars to reach the bolt on the right of the toe. It felt more like 11c to me.
By bsocks
From: Peoria, AZ
Dec 4, 2009

Defintitely thought provoking at the roof. Feet are sparse until you can get your kneebar in. Undercling, squeeze, kneebar, and go!!
By Jonathan Grand
Apr 13, 2010

Onsight....fail...didnt notice the knee bar. Instead we just threw from the left. Kneebar would have helped much more.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Apr 29, 2012

Thank you whoever added the leave-it biners at the anchors! Please leave these in place as they enable an easy rap-off. Note that they should probably not be used for TRing this route.
By Jonathan Myers
Dec 8, 2012

I did terrible on my 1st attempt but at least i finished. All the clips were pretty scary, I would love to come back and do this climb again....oh ya and 80ft? Felt allot shorter maybe 50...

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