Camden Hills Rock Climbing
[NOTE: The crags for this AREA have been numbered so that they are listed, roughly, in order from the northernmost (Maiden) to southernmost (Mt.Battie) and crags that are close together appear together, instead of alphabetical. Another way to look at it is: the crags now are listed, roughly, L to R as one would view them from the far shore of Megunticook Lake, if you could see them all from there. R. Hall, Maine Admin, 12/5/16]
The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.
The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.
Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.
All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
139 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',68],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Camden Hills
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Camden Hills:
Featured Route For Camden Hills
Running Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Maine
: Camden Hills
: 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Me...
Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to fl...[more] Browse More Classics in Maine