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Camden Hills

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01. Maiden Cliff & Frostbite, Pete's & Blue Vein 
02. The Verticals 
03. Jerry's Wall 
04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 
05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 
06. Skyline Crag 
07. Left Cataract (mostly Ice) 
08. Right Cataract (Ice &Bixler's Area) 
09. Guide's Wall 
10. the Spot - Bouldering 
11. Fireman's Ladder (Rampart Area) 
12. The Rampart 
13. Hot Spot , Rock Climbing 
13a. Hot Spot - Ice Climbing 
14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook 
15. Mt. Battie 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

3. 22 Tacks Trail
A winding doubletrack, gently uphill the first half and gently downhill the second half. Near Camden, Maine
Maine Sport Race Loop
A great classic New England rooty, winding loop with no elevation change. Near Rockport, Maine
From MP's sister site:

Camden Hills Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.2471, -69.0874 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,985
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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Description 

[NOTE: The crags for this AREA have been numbered so that they are listed, roughly, in order from the northernmost (Maiden) to southernmost (Mt.Battie) and crags that are close together appear together, instead of alphabetical. Another way to look at it is: the crags now are listed, roughly, L to R as one would view them from the far shore of Megunticook Lake, if you could see them all from there. R. Hall, Maine Admin, 12/5/16]


The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

142 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',71],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',23],['5.8',13],['5.9',23],['5.10',22],['5.11',16],['5.12',15],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Camden Hills:
Everdrip   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   07. Left Cataract (mostly I...
Equinox   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Poison Ivy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Clamdigger Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
funny farm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 40'   05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
500 Pound Flakeout   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   02. The Verticals
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Glory Hole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
Spider (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
The Million Muppet March   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   09. Guide's Wall
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Exasperator   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Me...
The Bolt Ladder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 60'   02. The Verticals
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 60'   02. The Verticals
birds eye (aka- FB)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
Dream Weaver   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 80'   12. The Rampart
Obscure Object of Desire   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Ariel   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   12. The Rampart
voluntary madness   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
Rock Climbing Photo: dave orsmond birds eye 10a

birds eye (aka- FB) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Maine : Camden Hills : 05. Lost Valley aka Out Bac...
fun climbing up to a crux at 2/3 height. can seem a little harder the first time u try it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

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