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Cam wedged with a hex??
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Jul 13, 2013
What do you guys think? I've seen this a few times, but do you think it'd actually work in a fall?

Rock Climbing Photo: Cam+hex
Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Joined Jun 2, 2011
130 points
Jul 13, 2013
Haha, maybe... Depends which one(s) you clip. If you clipped only the cam there's a chance it might. Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,430 points
Jul 13, 2013
One way to find out.... SDY
Joined Jan 29, 2013
0 points
Jul 13, 2013
Tick, tick, tick, tick...
"Set it and forget it" was never more appropriate!
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
5 points
Jul 13, 2013
BOMBER!! K Weber
Joined Jun 17, 2011
0 points
Jul 13, 2013
I doubt it. But it depends on how you whip onto it; seems like any outward force is probably going to slide the cam free before it's fully weighted. If it's all I had, I'd put a nice long sling on it and hope I found something better real soon. But there's really only one way to find out. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
40 points
Jul 13, 2013
it can only help to dump the weight at least.

if I were to try this I'd probably turn the hex sideways so there's less chance of the hex slipping or pivoting out of place, releasing the whole junk show.
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
75 points
Jul 13, 2013
The left side rock looks smooth and hex face towards that side is rounded so I would say don't fall, but who knows. I've seen pictures of old timers who could stack like a mofo but this is less than confidence inspiring.

Let me guess, you whipped on it and it held or zoom out the photo and its 6 feet off the ground.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
163 points
Jul 13, 2013
Seems to me that if the climbing is easy enough to allow you to use both hands to set up that mess (can you think of a way to place those pieces one handed? I can't...), then you should just keep climbing and find a better placement.

If there's literally no better placements in the vicinity, then sure, it's better than nothing. Still, I think you might have better luck if you were to really overcam the C4 and then place it like a passive piece, so you end up with the equivalent of two stacked nuts, instead of a nut and a squishy piece that might slip out if the hex rotates.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
3 points
Jul 13, 2013
Doesn't look great to me. It does make me curious though. Wouldn't mind putting a bomber piece below it and weighting it/bounce testing it. Joshinator
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Aug 1, 2011
20 points
Jul 13, 2013
well you could do that or your could buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit. I have stacked Hexes for shits and grins but I dont like the slick metal on my lobes Rob Warden...Space Lizard
From Between Zion, Vegas, LA, and my van
Joined Dec 19, 2011
0 points
Jul 20, 2013
I have to agree with "buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit." My guess is that placement would fail at least 50% of the time. Has anyone ever fallen on a cam wedged with a hex and not pulled it? With any chance of the cam walking or hex shifting even slightly, the stacking falls apart. ONLY nuts and hexes were even intended to be stacked because they are static pro and can potentially be placed one-handed, like the awesome examples below (not mine):
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements
Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements
Lorenzo Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 23, 2011
55 points
Jul 20, 2013
Turn the hex sideways so the cam will bite into the open end of the hex, and then pray! climbinbob
Joined Nov 15, 2007
0 points
Jul 20, 2013
YER GONNA DIE!!!! Alan Doak
From boulder, co
Joined Oct 1, 2007
70 points
Jul 21, 2013
Cams rely on friction to work. Metal on metal is almost frictionless. Yer gonna die! Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
70 points
Aug 13, 2013
Take a whipper on it and test it out !! Tanner Schoonmaker
From Sheridan, Wy Laramie during sc
Joined Aug 13, 2013
0 points
Aug 13, 2013
it does not help that the rock is wet...but there is totally a pink tricam placement at the back left of that crack. joshf
From missoula, mt
Joined Oct 25, 2007
705 points
Aug 26, 2013
Maybe if you turned the cam around so the silver lobes were on the hex it would be less likely to slip... but i still wouldn't trust it. Dave006
Joined Feb 16, 2013
0 points

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