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Sep 24, 2012
Am I better off getting a #3 big bro or a the respective camalots. I climb mostly at the slippery devils lake. I am on the fence and just looking for opinions. Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
Joined Apr 10, 2012
75 points
Sep 24, 2012
cams certainly inspire more confidence... S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
15 points
Sep 24, 2012
For the largest sizes, where the Big Bros are the only option, the choice is easy.

In the middling-large sizes, where you are choosing between a big bro and a #5 or a #6 Camalot, I would definately start witht the big Camalot. These are a lot more versatile (flares, etc), easier to place, and, most importantly, you can scoot them for the moving-ow-toprope strategy.

If you become one of those sick-puppy OW freaks, you can fill in the rack with big bros later, but start with the big cam(s).
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
5 points
Sep 24, 2012
+1 to jon, have you ever tried placing a big bro? go all the way to at least #6 camelots if not the big dudes ParkerKempf Kempf
From atlanta, GA
Joined Jul 16, 2011
0 points
Sep 26, 2012
Bolts are the way to go. Fuck gear. mrbiscoop
Joined Jun 17, 2006
0 points
Sep 26, 2012
Another option to big bros if you can afford it and are getting into the really big stuff.

valleygiant.com/no9cam.html
thomas.w
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 11, 2011
5 points
Sep 27, 2012
Cams are faster to place and can be walked along side you with very little effort. Big Bros cannot do that. I would definitely start with cams and then add big bros to your rack in the future if you really want them. randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
103 points
Sep 27, 2012
If you're climbing at the Lake there are only a handful of routes that require the use of big cams or Bros. I really don't think buying big cams for specifically climbing at the Lake is really necessary. But honestly in my opinion you're better off using big Camalots if large pro is ever really necessary. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Sep 27, 2012
I think the bigger the cam, the more likely it will slip on that smooth sided DL quartzite. A well fit Big Bro' might do the job better considering the rock will NOT crush or erode at all from the pro against it. They're bomber. Not sure why you need that big a size, but check out someone selling some 'bros here at MP.
mountainproject.com/v/fs---big...
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
505 points
Administrator
Sep 27, 2012
Tom, so a #3 big bro is about the same size as a #6 c4, maybe a little larger?

You have to be pretty broad-minded to even find stuff that size at the Lake ...!

The C4 will be easier to place well and easier to place quickly. Definitely heavier and bulkier to pack around.
Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,235 points
Sep 27, 2012
+1, can't think of anything off the top of my head that absolutely requires gear that big at the lake. I'd rather have the cam though. For me big bros are harder to climb past and kicking them out scares the crap out of me. Big cams you can also walk.


Not that I think any of that is necessary at the lake but for your travels...
NickinCO Mardi
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
40 points
Sep 27, 2012
What's up with people thinking cams will slide on the DL quartzite? I would like to hear a first-hand account of this ever happening. To me this just seems like a myth. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Sep 27, 2012
Andy Hansen wrote:
What's up with people thinking cams will slide on the DL quartzite? I would like to hear a first-hand account of this ever happening. To me this just seems like a myth.



Never climbed at DL, so no first-hand experience there, but I have seen perfectly placed cams slide out of quartzite in another area (rock canyon, UT). This is certainly a possibility if the coefficient of friction between the lobes and the rock is too low, and a cam with a bigger camming angle like BDs certainly doesn't help the situation.
Ken Noyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,912 points
Sep 27, 2012
Andy Hansen wrote:
What's up with people thinking cams will slide on the DL quartzite? I would like to hear a first-hand account of this ever happening. To me this just seems like a myth.


I've never seen one slide out but the bigger sizes of C4s will walk real easily at DL if you're not careful about placement and rope drag.
Caleb Cerling
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
20 points
Sep 28, 2012
Can't bump a Big Bro. Cactus Moonshine
Joined Mar 24, 2012
0 points
Sep 28, 2012
ccerling wrote:
I've never seen one slide out but the bigger sizes of C4s will walk real easily at DL if you're not careful about placement and rope drag.


I think this is true in most cases regardless of rock friction or cam size. But, regarding friction coefficient... (Mu?) I guess I'd really need to see some empirical evidence or data. This isn't something I geek out about usually but I've heard this so many times coming from people well versed and not so well versed about placing cams at the Lake. Personally I think it's sort of bogus as it's never happened to me on any route at the Lake and I almost exclusively was leading there.
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Sep 28, 2012
Andy Hansen wrote:
I think this is true in most cases regardless of rock friction or cam size. But, regarding friction coefficient... (Mu?) I guess I'd really need to see some empirical evidence or data. This isn't something I geek out about usually but I've heard this so many times coming from people well versed and not so well versed about placing cams at the Lake. Personally I think it's sort of bogus as it's never happened to me on any route at the Lake and I almost exclusively was leading there.

As I recall there was a Climbing mag article at some point with first-hand info about cams slipping at Devil's Lake. I could be completely misremembering though, so I'd recommend checking it out yourself. Left most of my climbing mags at home instead of bringing them to my dorm.
Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 14, 2011
350 points
Administrator
Sep 28, 2012
Andy, I think sometimes people confuse the problems of Baraboo quartzite with the problems of shallowly placed gear.

Personally, I've blown more shallowly placed small nuts than anything else in this rock. Maybe that's just me.
Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,235 points
Sep 28, 2012
Big bro is a more reliable placement. Plus you can't do that complex top rope bs. You gotta climb. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
511 points
Sep 28, 2012
Both. You still saved 1000's over being a golfer. Or boater. JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 12, 2009
770 points
May 2, 2013
JCM wrote:
These are a lot more versatile (flares, etc), easier to place, and, most importantly, you can scoot them for the moving-ow-toprope strategy.


LOL love that "moving-ow-toprope strategy." Thanks for the advice (another old thread I revived, but easier than asking the same already-answered questions)

Are you ever concerned about falling before placing the first piece, and having a giant #6 cam spike you in the back?
Ana Tine
Joined Dec 7, 2012
0 points


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