REI Community
Fortress Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Crack T 
American Wall T 
Battlement, The T 
Bedtime for Bonzo T 
Blue Runner T 
Bombs Bursting T 
Bonzo's Revenge T 
Calypso I T 
Calypso II T 
Calypso III T 
Fading Memory T 
Fortress Grunges T 
Get Outta My Way T 
Horny Bitch T 
Lost in Space T 
Party Time T 
Route 48 T 
Scratch Your Face T 
Serpent T 
Snake T 
Thunder Chicken T 
Turret, The T 
Where Lizards Dare T 

Calypso III 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori, 1977
Season: Faces S/SE and gets some shade from trees
Page Views: 3,456
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pretty sweet fist crack! Ran it out due to not bri...


A good climb despite being wide up top. Perhaps the best easy introduction to offwidth around, the top will fit and arm and perhaps your head. Many a gumby leader has survived learning to lead on this route even before the advent of what we refer to as 'large cams' these days.
The traditional grade of this climb was a sandbag at 5.2.


Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner with a wide crack up top. THis is "Calypso III, 5.4". Just to the left further still you will see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it, "Snake 5.8".


A rack of cams from small to as large as you have, provided you want gear up top. Most people just run the top out a little,as it is not difficult.

Photos of Calypso III Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up Calypso III on a hot august day
Climbing up Calypso III on a hot august day
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down while top belaying a 2nd who'd never ...
Looking down while top belaying a 2nd who'd never ...

Comments on Calypso III Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Feb 21, 2007

This route used to be much dirtier. Since bolt anchors were placed and climbers don't have to top out in the sand, the route stays much cleaner. Definitely one of the most popular routes at the wall. If you want to sew it up, bring a rack up to #4 or #4.5 or if you want to do it all passive bring a set of stoppers and a set of hexes up to #11. Long slings help no matter what, as the placements tend to be deep up high.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is where I found out what sandbagging at RRG is all about. Hard to believe it could ever have been considered 5.2. Fun and challenging lead.
By sunder
From: Alsip, Il
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route. The hardest part is the fist 8 feet. Then continue to climb the crack. The top have decide to climb the face or continue on the crack. Click up left and step over to the anchors you don't need to top out to lower off. Starts as small gear and goes up to a #4 and #5 at the top.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

My first Proper trad lead and it was real fun! Good practice placing gear in the crack while on good face holds. Pulling over the bulge at the top was heady since it wouldn't take any gear but fun none the less.
By Michael McClarty
Mar 20, 2013

fun route with a semi-boulder V1 start if you go direct. didn't bring any 4's up? it gets pretty runout but as long as you've got toes deep in the crack your not going anywhere and options open up. really fun for a slab and good for a quick warmup.
By Donovan Corcoran
From: Oxford, OH
Aug 9, 2015

definitely need doubles of 3 and 4 if you want to sew it up.

When you get to the section where it looks like a bunch of bad slopers on the left face, look around for a few really solid edges and pockets.

Ended up having to bail on an onsight attempt (stupidly only brought my single rack of cams, one 3 and one 4 will not get you up this) because I wasn't comfortable running it out. Luckily a more experienced climber I was with finished it and I was able to work everything out on TR. Will be back for the lead, fun climb
By .Alex.
Sep 27, 2016

If you're feeling confident on 5.5 and love widening cracks like this one you can do what I like to call the Counting-With-Cams Challenge.

All you're allowed to bring are a #1, #2, #3, #4, and a #5, plus draws.

The end little bulge requires commitment, but it isn't too bad.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About