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Calypso I 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Molzon and Dick Shori 1977
Page Views: 2,423
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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BETA PHOTO: this is the scramble start


There are two options for the start... The normal way is to scramble up to the crack from the right using an easy ramp to the right of the tree... I enjoyed a direct start a few feet to the left of the tree... The direct start was a little harder than 5.7 and had PG13 protection but i thought it was really fun... Once you get to the crack you just jam and layback your way to the top passing an interesting move to the left... Pull through the steep bulge at the top and stand on the ledge...

To belay your second walk to the back of the ledge and build an anchor in a corner, or find another option if you can... When you are done you can rap off of the anchors of Blue Runner just to the left as long as no one is on it (but it is a popular route so you might have to search for another option)... This last paragraph is why this route isn't as popular as some others... All the other routes in the area have bolt anchors...


Just right of Blue runner stand by a large tree and next to the rock and look up... You will see a nice flake/crack leading to a steep finish.... Thats your route...


Regular rack will get you to the ledge comfortably... one of the big downers of this route is the lack of bolted anchor and no convenient option... The best belay i could find was in a corner at the back of the ledge to the left in a corner...

Photos of Calypso I Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the very exposed start of the climb
Me on the very exposed start of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Natural pro
BETA PHOTO: Natural pro

Comments on Calypso I Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 18, 2011

This route now has bolts and rings at the top. When you top out the bulge, they'll be on your left.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Mar 19, 2012

I onsighted this climb, so perhaps I missed some otherwise obvious placements, but I took the scramble up from the right start variation, and found my first piece being a .4 inch cam that I was placing blindly as I leaned left out over a 20 foot drop with my right hand crimping a tiny hold. The climb was super quality though. Really fun flake and features higher up.
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014

Awesome climb, but I was pretty pumped. I thought bit harder than 5.7
By Brian L.
Jul 18, 2016

Fun route. Not sure what direct start the description is talking about, but there's a ~5.10c face climb you can do on top rope (no protection that I saw).

PS: Don't be intimidated by Drake's comment. He definitely missed something (I'd argue more than 1 somethings)
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Oct 13, 2016

This is a really fun route. If you get nervous starting the climb off the 20 foot ledge, put some gear in on the wall before the flake and sling it really long. The right scramble up to the ledge is pretty easy on solid feet, probably 5.3 or so.
By HellifDyno Summer
Apr 17, 2017

FYI - Right bolt is moving/wiggling about 2 - 4 mm.

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