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Wind Tower - SW Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso D irect Start T 
Across The River From Butt Hair T 
Bomb, The T,TR 
Boulder Direct T 
Breezy T 
Calypso T 
Calypso Direct T 
Day 444 T 
Erickson's Wide Crack T 
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 
Governor's Climb, The T 
Hard-Up T 
I Did It My Way T,TR 
Jimmy Cliff T 
Left Out T 
Lemmings T 
My Own Way T,TR 
No, Do it My Way T 
Raisin Bran T 
Rastaman Roof T 
Recon T 
Reggae T 
Roofed Out T 
Salvation T 
Stagger T 
Tagger T 
Tigger T 
Tigger Plus T 
Variety T 
West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Calypso Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 6,933
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jun 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

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  • Description 

    A fun alternate exit for Calypso. Start up Calypso. At the roof where Calypso heads right, cut up and left instead through a steep crack (5.8) up to a ledge with a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (this is the top of the first pitch of Tagger). Rap 75' from here to the ground or continue up Tigger (5.5), Tagger (5.10c), Across the River from Butt Hair (5.9), or the G.Y. Dihedral (5.8 - not recommended) to the walk-off ledge.

    See existing comments on Calypso for additional beta.


    Standard rack.

    Photos of Calypso Direct Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux sequence.
    The crux sequence.
    Rock Climbing Photo: pulling the roof
    pulling the roof
    Rock Climbing Photo: A climber turning the 5.8 roof of Calypso Direct w...
    A climber turning the 5.8 roof of Calypso Direct w...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down it....
    Looking down it....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda Leach stemmed out above the roof.
    Brenda Leach stemmed out above the roof.

    Comments on Calypso Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Dec 11, 2003

    Another option for P2 of this variation... once you've cleared the roof and gained the ledge above, climb the slab straight up another 20' or so, traverse right, then down another 20' to gain the ramp for linking this with Reggae. The traverse is easy, but runnout. A solid black Alien was my only placement...
    By Jason Shatek
    Nov 3, 2004

    This is a fun alternative to Calypso with a bit more spice! The overhang is a lot of fun to go over! My first 5.8. On a gear note, as you are going over the overhang to the right of the crack and up is a pocket that takes a red alien and protects well through the crux. Watch out though, on the overhang you have to lieback on a really good hold that felt solid but I noticed cracks all the way around it. A fantastic route!
    By Blitzo
    Sep 12, 2006

    A fun route!
    By rob.calm
    From: Loveland, Colorado
    Jun 4, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Another alternate for P2 is Roofed Out, which makes for a nice 2-pitch climb. Another comment on gear. One can climb up to the R of the roof getting high enough to set 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal crack that is on the L. Either finish the route from there (~5.9) or downclimb after setting the protection and climb up the L side of the roof (the usual way).

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