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Callisto 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010

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Description 

The third of the 'Trifecta' of long routes. Start on .12c for a day, then head right and all the way up the fun and technical slabby to vertical hanging ramp. At the very top, a crux bulge with a boulder problem guards the anchor. I think originally a couple of us climbed a couple feet to the left of the final two bolts; I recently tried following the bolt line and found it pretty hard. I'd say it might get .13a or b for the left variation and .13c for the 'straight up' version. Note that these two options are about 2-3 feet apart, so it's hard to say which is the more intuitive. In any case, the climbing is varied and interesting on this 40m journey. The boulder problem is a bit of a slap in the face, but it's really easy to A0 through it so it shouldn't deter folks from enjoying the other less difficult climbing. Awesome!

It's also possible and, in my opinion, better to climb this via Cinnamon Groove. It's a straighter line and though it's pumpier, doesn't alter the grade at all because of the more restful, technical climbing on the lower angle ramp.

Location 

Starts on .12c for a Day, then trends right up the slab after the first anchor. Lowering fully to the ground requires an 80m (!) rope; luckily, lower anchors provide a chance to pull the rope through if one doesn't possess such a cord. Just be sure not to swing too far out from the wall if attempting to access said anchors!

Protection 

Lots of bolts. I think if all of them were clipped, it would require 25+ quickdraws. Some of the bolts on both the lower and upper sections are somewhat superfluous. At the top crux, it's most expedient to just skip the final two bolts as they are super close together and way too hard to clip to be worth it. In fact, if you take the left path you'll likely not be able to clip them anyway. Finally, many draws can be backcleaned (especially desirable on the lower section). 6 or so shoulder length slings are a must for mediating rope drag, especially on the lower angle ramp in the middle of the climb. Fixed lowering anchors on top.


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By blakeherrington
May 30, 2017

The climbing is excellent, though dirty, until the final couple meters when it gets REALLY dirty, and vastly more difficult. After some chalking and brushing, I still couldn't really conceive of the final few moves on the arete finish, and I never though to climb out left.

I tried to link Cinnamon Groove into this finish, and despite lots of bolt skipping and long sling usage, I still felt like I was losing a game of tug-of-war with my belayer.

If you wanted to send this thing, it would probably work best to give it a thorough brushing up high, suss out the left hand finish, and then have your belayer come up to one of the no-hands anchors halfway up the wall (on '12c for a day' or 'Cinnamon').
By Ben Gilkison
Jul 28, 2017

If I remember correctly the left hand beta was only slightly left of the last couple bolts and for the most part, still followed the line of hardened steel. Climbing with a skinny cord helped--an 80 meter rope so you can lower back to the ground without shenanigans.

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