|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 265'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Jim Scott, Tim Dolan, Dave DesChamps|
|Submitted By:||Clay Mansfield on Mar 22, 2013|
|Comments on Call Me Ishmael||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andrew Megas-Russell
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 9, 2013
I agree with Clay's comment regarding "cruxes being at the bolts." The protection was right where you need it. The first pitch was long and had mega classic moves and position! Second pitch had thin and powerful moves!
From my perspective (being 5'8" tall) I thought some of the crux moves might have been slightly hight dependent and I may have had to do a few more intermediate moves than the taller person might, but isn't that how climbing is?... a little different for everyone!
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 6, 2015
|There are a couple approach pitches, described which will by in the next Toofast Topo's edition. P1. Start just right of Dem Bones, moving up and right, short pitch to base of dihedral, belay. P2. Leave corner immediately, climbing face cracks to face to glorious arete with 2 bolts up high, belaying at top ledge. P3. Move back right to next corner over, then 'Golden Reach' slab move to get onto awesome chicken heads; continue up to horizontal crack, traverse right to Glory Hole. Either belay here, then cave through tight uteral and make right to right most low ledge (80' below Blood Brother start) OR lead around horizontal crack to ledge on right, belay there. P4 and P5 proceed up and right from there. You'll see first bolt a short traverse out right and up. Proceed on up from there, two long pitches w/ a couple bolts per pitch, occasionally run out, but hard spots protected well. P4 ends at 2 bolts. P5 has a balancey traverse right to a chickenhead overhang, then onto slab finish. LOVED IT.|