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Whale Dome
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Blood Brother T 
Call Me Ishmael T 
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Call Me Ishmael 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 265'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Scott, Tim Dolan, Dave DesChamps
Page Views: 1,003
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Mar 22, 2013

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Andrew ready to take flight on the 2nd pitch


A 2-pitch line up the northeast face of Whale Dome with awesome position and climbing, and bullet Cochise granite.

Pitch 1 has a few bolts. Climb the path of least resistance, with cruxes at the bolts. Eventually gain a curving weakness, which will guide you up to a bolted belay atop a giant chickenheaded flake. 165 ft. A great pitch.

Pitch 2 also has a few bolts, gained by traversing right. There is thin and technical climbing up to and past the 2nd bolt. Pitch finishes with fun connect the dots chickenhead slingin' and climbin'. 100 ft. Gear anchor.

Scramble to summit and take the usual rap down the other side of the Whale Dome.


Starts on the far (up drainage) side of the huge sloping ramp on the east side of Whale Dome (The big ramp that the prominent flake of Blood Brother starts off). There are few ways to get there:

Stand under Dem Bones, then move right 15 feet and look down and right and you will see a blunt arete with some bolts on it. This is the approach pitch and I think goes at 5.9.

We decided to climb a few more direct approach pitches instead, starting just right of Dem Bones and essentially gunning for the big tree on the sloping ramp. From the tree, chimney up a ways then drop down through a tunnel and it will spit you out on a flat ledge. First bolt is way out right, up a blunt arete.


Stoppers, brass nuts never a bad idea, singles of cams up to #3 BD. I placed a #4 BD b/c I had one, but it's not necessary. ~12 draws.

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First pitch

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By Andrew Megas-Russell
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 9, 2013

I agree with Clay's comment regarding "cruxes being at the bolts." The protection was right where you need it. The first pitch was long and had mega classic moves and position! Second pitch had thin and powerful moves!

From my perspective (being 5'8" tall) I thought some of the crux moves might have been slightly hight dependent and I may have had to do a few more intermediate moves than the taller person might, but isn't that how climbing is?... a little different for everyone!
By bikesrockswaves
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 6, 2015

There are a couple approach pitches, described which will by in the next Toofast Topo's edition. P1. Start just right of Dem Bones, moving up and right, short pitch to base of dihedral, belay. P2. Leave corner immediately, climbing face cracks to face to glorious arete with 2 bolts up high, belaying at top ledge. P3. Move back right to next corner over, then 'Golden Reach' slab move to get onto awesome chicken heads; continue up to horizontal crack, traverse right to Glory Hole. Either belay here, then cave through tight uteral and make right to right most low ledge (80' below Blood Brother start) OR lead around horizontal crack to ledge on right, belay there. P4 and P5 proceed up and right from there. You'll see first bolt a short traverse out right and up. Proceed on up from there, two long pitches w/ a couple bolts per pitch, occasionally run out, but hard spots protected well. P4 ends at 2 bolts. P5 has a balancey traverse right to a chickenhead overhang, then onto slab finish. LOVED IT.

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