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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Children of Light S 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Ol' 5.10 S 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Fist T 
Stone Groove T 

Chingando 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt, June 1965
Page Views: 7,541
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Rick Cashner free soloing "Chingando". P...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detached flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".

The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...

Location 

Walk uphill from below the climb.
Rappel off.

Protection 

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro


Photos of Chingando Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
Randy on his OS lead of Chingdango
Rock Climbing Photo: Telephoto view of the Iota; the prominent crack is...
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto view of the Iota; the prominent crack is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott following Chingando (As he calls it Chingand...
Scott following Chingando (As he calls it Chingand...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Chingando August 2007 Yosemite Valley at T...
Leading Chingando August 2007 Yosemite Valley at T...

Comments on Chingando Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2017
By Aaron S
Apr 26, 2007

The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit". Yea... pay attention to that part.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 10, 2007

Gear beta in above route description is wrong.

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 10, 2007

Dammit Blitzo! Stop "gurgling" and put in some good info with your scant ass route descriptions. Pro to 3"???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!111
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 26, 2008

Chingando gets right into business as soon as your feet leave the ground. I climbed it one very warm August afternoon in the sun. let's just say, crazy or stupid? I had fun climbing the route. And would do it again. Hardman offwidth training circuit! Lives up to that. I did use a #6 and walked it up until I couldn't anymore. Then I used a #4(blu) bigbro that i bought in the valley just for this climb. I'm glad I had the big bro. Armando
By Rob Dillon
Mar 6, 2009

Yeah, pro to 3". And shirts are aid. As are high-tops and long pants. Sure thing, Blitzo!
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Mar 5, 2010

Defiantly on the training circuit. One of the easier 5.10 offwidths though. There are a lot of knobs and edges on this one so you don't actually have to use only offwidth technique as much as some other .10a's of this size.

I think Chuck was just fucking around on this one, as the name implies.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Nov 20, 2010

Like many wide cracks, this climb doesn't get the attention it deserves. It's every bit as good as Reed's Direct or Lunatic Fringe. Bring doubles on the 4's and 5's and at least one 6 (plus some hand size stuff for the start) and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need a big bro unless you're a really big dude and can't fit in the chimney up there.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

FIRST ASCENT: Chuck Pratt, June, 1965. In 1961, Mr. Pratt also led Crack of Doom, Yosemite's first 5.10. (Steve Roper, Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley, 1971)

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...
By anthony.
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 29, 2015

Safe to rap from the two-bolt anchor to the big ledge below the climb with a 60m rope.
By Trevor Shu
Apr 5, 2016

A 60m rope will not work for TRing this route from the two bolt anchor. I was lowered to about 20 feet from the ground when the rope ran out. Since the route only diagonals slightly, It seemed unlikely that we would have been able to rappel from the bolts to the ledge with a 60 as Anthony suggests, so we climbed up and over and scrambled down around the back. A 70 SHOULD work for TRing and rapping.
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
May 26, 2017

A 70 m rope works for toproping.

For big cams I used 3 x #4, 2 x #5, 2 x #6, and 1 Valley Giant # 9. I felt like this was just adequate, but I am horrible at offwidth. I used a tag line at the suggestion of my partner and was thankful for it to prevent carrying all the heavy cams from the start. There are some descent places to pull up the tagline en route. Toward the top, the crack gets too big for a 6, but the VG 9 works great and you can walk it along. It then gets too big for the 9 for a short distance then narrows down again to once again accept the 9. So, you have to either leave it and make a run to the anchor or remove the 9 and do a few moves well above the 6 then replace the 9. Without the VG 9 or a big bro, it's a pretty serious run to the anchor. My torso was large enough to prevent ever getting into a secure squeeze position. There is a piton to clip at the end of the main crack before the small traverse left to the anchor. This also can work as a directional for toproping.

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