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Dozier Dome
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Bull Dozier 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 3,746
Submitted By: Karl K on Aug 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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BETA PHOTO: Bull Dozier follows the obvious crack system in th...

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  • Description 

    Right leaning crack starts off ledge about 30' up
    Climb 5.6 friction (no pro) straight up to slightly right-leaning crack [or it looks like a corner system just to the left is protectable - then traverse right].
    First pitch - good pro & moves to sloping ledge - 195' 5.7
    2nd & 3rd pitches As per J. Albers (from comments)
    The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
    The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
    Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
    Cheers.

    Location 

    About 50' right of Holdless Horror (not the crack 20' right - thats "Side Out 5.8R)

    Protection 

    Standard trad rack
    Mostly finger to hand sizes


    Photos of Bull Dozier Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill McConachie leading pitch 2
    Bill McConachie leading pitch 2
    Rock Climbing Photo: A party (Joe and Joven) on the final pitch of Bull...
    BETA PHOTO: A party (Joe and Joven) on the final pitch of Bull...

    Comments on Bull Dozier Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2016
    By Karl K
    From: Phoenix, AZ
    Aug 7, 2009

    I got run off after the first pitch by a thunderstorm: easy 2 rope rope off chain anchors 15' right on that sloping ledge; any info on the 2nd & 3rd pitches appreciated.
    I liked the first pitch better than Holdless Horror.
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Sep 28, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Karl,
    The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
    The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
    Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
    Cheers.
    By aliebling
    Jul 24, 2011

    First two pitches are fantastic for a 5.7 leader. Just lovely and very secure climbing.

    In early season, go all the way left to the waterfall for the walkoff and you can take off your shoes and walk down the waterfall almost all the way. Best walk off ever!
    By powderfinger
    From: san mateo
    Jul 25, 2011

    Did the walk off yesterday and would NOT suggest walking down the actual waterfall. The water may only be a few inches deep at points but it sure is swift. A slip and a tumble and say goodbye. Instead, when you walk off the slabs from the dome to the water walk upstream, cross over on a few rocks and continue across and down the slabs on the other side. These slabs end in the trees where there is a trail. Follow the trail down the side of the waterfall. There are some great safe pools of water on this side if you want to go for a dip. When you reach the bottom of the falls cross the creek (or go for another swim) and it puts you about even with the base of the dome. Walk off with swimming+climb=nice day.
    By aliebling
    Jul 31, 2011

    The water level and flow is quite likely up further than when we did it.

    Also to clarify, we didn't walk down the steep/scary portions (especially the slab waterfall right before one cuts right to return to the base of the climbs). One should obviously use common sense (and avoid the really steep parts). We considered most of the water perfectly safe to walkoff through but YMMV.
    By Rob Selter
    From: running springs Ca
    Jun 20, 2012

    better than holdless but not as long.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Sep 12, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Two very good long 5.7 (UK 4b) pitches - never hard, lots of gear but quite sustained. Recommended to visitors as a good, non-scary introduction to Tuolumne climbing. To avoid rope drag probably best to belay using gear in the crack on the big ledge (level with the bolts that are 20' right of the corner).
    By old5ten
    From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
    Jul 22, 2014
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    One of the BEST easy (definitely not 5.7 by Yosemite standards) routes in Tuolumne. IMHO better than Holdless Horror. Awesome crack in the finger and thin hand (mostly) range.
    By Crimpanzee
    From: San Francisco, California
    Sep 16, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Great route, and better than Holdless Horror IMO with only a slightly harder grade. Be careful of the knobs inside cracks...nuts might be wedged by these but not touching enough sides of rock to be completely secure.
    By Colin Brochard
    From: San Francisco
    Jul 13, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Sets up for a neat sunset solo if you are into that kind of thing. Exciting, wideish bulge up high. Mostly secure jams and locks and good feet. Enjoyed the beautiful walkoff past some cool pools with views of Tenaya lake to the west.
    By JaclynHarr
    Aug 21, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    As a relatively new trad leader, I didn't feel comfortable doing the wide bulge on the second pitch without much protection (hadn't brought a 3 or 4 cam). Ended up going to the right on an undercling, up a dirty crack, and then doing a few face moves to the left (5.7ish) to get back on the main crack. Good option if you don't have big pieces with you, or are like me and feel more comfortable on face than wide cracks. Plenty of options to protect for both the leader and the follower with that variation. Bring super long slings to reduce rope drag, though!

    Otherwise, a great climb - first pitch is a nicely sustained hand crack that eats up nuts, second pitch is a bit more varied. If you have a 70 meter rope you can stretch it out a bit, and be pretty much on exposed 4th class for all of the third pitch.
    By tom donnelly
    From: san diego
    Oct 20, 2016

    You can rappel Ripple, which is the route just right, if no one is on it. Two raps, each with 2 ropes. The upper rap anchor is hard to see from Bull Dozier. We found it by climbing 40-50 feet up the green crack on the third pitch, then traverse right to a ledge with the chains at head height.