Phantom Spires Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||38.79, -120.2417 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||62,114|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Aron Quiter on Feb 10, 2004|
High above to the North, hidden from Highway 50, sits the lonely Phantom Spires, and many surrounding rocks.
Amongst a barren rock field you will find many traditional routes, along with some more difficult sport and mixed routes in an excellent, yet unsheltered setting that's almost eerie at times. Watching other parties climb is easy, since there are absolutely no trees surrounding the spires.
Wind can be unbearble, but because they face south, you can climb here from late fall to early summer before it gets too hot.
The black and white granite of The Phantom Spires will remind you of Yosemite, but like most Tahoe granite, isn't as glasslike.
Camping: around the the lot, just past the parking area.
Bring a 4X4 to access if it's been raining, or cross your fingers and drive REALLY carefully with your lower (not low!) clearance vehicles to get in on the 1+ mile long access road. If the access road is snowed in, or if you can't get in with your vehicle, you can always walk in, which is a very pretty and awe inspiring view of the surrounding valley and the Phantom Spires.
From the West:
Take Highway 50 to Kyburz, which is 31 miles East of Placerville. From Kyburz, continue East 4.9 miles to the marked Wrights Lake Road, which is a left turn.
Continue using the directions below.
From the East:
Head approximately 20 miles West on Highway 50, 4.1 miles past the small town of Strawberry (and Lover's Leap), to Wright's Lake Road, which is a right turn. Continue using the directions below.
Once on Wright's Lake Road:
This will wander up a around for a while, getting narrower as it climbs. After 2.3 miles, the Phantom Spires will leap into view. As soon as you can see the spires, take the next left onto an unmarked gravel logging road that's REALLY easy to miss. This road heads downhill from the road and moves more in line with the gradient around the valley, and can be seen from the paved road below the spires if missed. Follow the gravel road (slowly in 2wd vehicles!) until the road ends in a parking lot about 2 miles in. There is a pullout about 1/2 way in on the road if you feel that your vehicle can't take the road, and this will shorten the longer approach.
The mapquest map below will get you to Kyburz.
Weather station 12.1 miles from here
81 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Phantom Spires
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phantom Spires
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantom Spires:
Featured Route For Phantom Spires
Over Easy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: ... : Middle Spire
On the left side of the north face is a detatched flake with a roof above it.Climb up the flake, pull the roof, move up the steep knobby face, up and right to a belay below a corner. Follow the corner to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Easily missed turnoff (left) to the Spires after ~...
Mike Arechiga on,Five Tendons.5.10d
Mike Arechiga on, Sharks tooth.5.9
Mike Arechiga on, Candy Land. 5.10c, mega classic!
Mike Arechiga on, Slow Dance. 5.10a.
the Spires (middle on left, upper on right) from o...
Last climbers standing on a beautiful summer day
Mike Arechiga on,K.E.Cracks.5.11a/b
Phantom Spires. Middle and Higher Spire. Photo by ...
Having Fun at Phantom Spires
BETA PHOTO: Entering The Blocks.
A remnant from days gone by
Jul 29, 2010
I remember when there were trees. It was kind of a horrendous hike up there!
By Justin Johnsen
Mar 12, 2013
[edit/update: all dirt roads in Eldorado National Forest are open for business as of April 1, 2013.]
This is my first winter in Nor Cal, so I don't know if this is a yearly thing, or new for 2012-13.
Eldorado National Forest dirt roads are all closed the end of November until "at least April."
"Dirt Road Seasonal Closure in Effect Nov. 29
Date(s): Nov 26, 2012
Contact(s): Frank Mosbacher
The seasonal closure of native surface roads, also referred to as dirt roads, in the Eldorado National Forest is in effect as of November 29, 2012. They will remain closed until at least April 1."
I saw a forum post that mentioned someone was ticketed for parking on the dirt road at the Spires, despite the warm dry weather.
So park on the pullout along paved Wrights Lake Road, and hike it in.
From WLR to the dirt parking lot/trailhead it's less than a mile, with a couple hundred feet of elevation each way. No problem!
Some people leave their low clearance cars there year round anyway, or when the dirt road gets too flooded or muddy.
By J. Albers
Mar 12, 2013
The seasonal closer of all dirt roads went into effect a couple of years ago (prior to that it was just select roads). They open the roads as conditions permit to minimize damage. The best thing to do is just call the forest service to find out what is open because they don't always keep their website up to date.
Sep 6, 2016
Beware! My car was broken into while parked on Wrights Lake Road. We left it up there on the shoulder only for a few hours, from about 1-4pm on Sunday. Very disappointing. They smashed the passenger rear windows and the window frame to take an empty (school-type) REI backpack. We left my Jetta there due to low clearance and drove in to the parking lot with the car that can handle the deep ruts in the access road.