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Routes in Welcome Wall
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Keebler's Revenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roe vs. Wade S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Uncle Remus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Welcome All S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Welcome Mat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wing of Bat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Craig McClenahan, Phil Bone, and Danny Keebler, 1991 (Falcon) |
| Page Views: | 907 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Wilcher Aaron on Sep 28, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags.
Details
Update: April, 16 2021.
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Description
First route at the top of the trail at the end of the scree field. Two routes to the left is Wing of Bat. This route is distinguished by its two variation start that connects together.
Again, there is a rated-R direct variation that offers one bolt for the first 25 feet or so and then links up with the main climb. The left variation is safer, with three or four bolts down low, but offers only 5.8-5.9 climbing for those first 25 feet. I didn't do the R section, so I can't comment on the features there. It looks a little steeper and harder than the left way.
Excellent moves up higher through a series of traverses and longish moves off round pinches(a Welcome Wall standard feature, the pinch with a thumb catch or the pinch with a crimper edge), crimpers, and sidepulls.
There are some great places to stem across and take weight off your arms. The bolting protects the climb just fine and the route is sustained and technical for fifty or sixty feet.
Finally, there is an airy crux up high to the anchors. Totally safe fall. You have to climb past the anchor to a big hand jam-undercling thing, then you can finally clip. Bouldery sequence here, making it 11b, V2/3 for me. Best climb of the day. Sick, guy.
Comments?
Again, there is a rated-R direct variation that offers one bolt for the first 25 feet or so and then links up with the main climb. The left variation is safer, with three or four bolts down low, but offers only 5.8-5.9 climbing for those first 25 feet. I didn't do the R section, so I can't comment on the features there. It looks a little steeper and harder than the left way.
Excellent moves up higher through a series of traverses and longish moves off round pinches(a Welcome Wall standard feature, the pinch with a thumb catch or the pinch with a crimper edge), crimpers, and sidepulls.
There are some great places to stem across and take weight off your arms. The bolting protects the climb just fine and the route is sustained and technical for fifty or sixty feet.
Finally, there is an airy crux up high to the anchors. Totally safe fall. You have to climb past the anchor to a big hand jam-undercling thing, then you can finally clip. Bouldery sequence here, making it 11b, V2/3 for me. Best climb of the day. Sick, guy.
Comments?
Protection
Nine bolts to two-bolt chain anchor.
NOTE: Chain and the anchor bolts have been replaced recently. The new anchor is about 5-10 feet to the left of the old mega rusty one.
There is a rated-R direct variation that offers one bolt for the first 25 feet or so. The left variation is safer, with three or four bolts down low, but offers only 5.8-5.9 climbing for those first 25 feet.
For the left way, use an extended runner to reduce rope drag.
Photos
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2 Comments