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Waterfall Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Christ S 
Charlie Solo T,TR 
Clamydia S 
Convulsions T 
Degeneration T,TR 
Degeneration Left T,TR 
Falls, The S 
Greeboo, The S 
Leading to Death T,TR 
Lieback Corner T,TR 
Oracle, The S 
Putrefaction S,TR 
Unknown S 

Waterfall Cliff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.2265, -122.1053 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,747
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002  with updates from LukeZK and 1 more
Forecast:
Today

44° | 39°
Thursday

53° | 48°
Friday

54° | 43°
Saturday

48° | 41°
Sunday

50° | 44°
Monday

55° | 47°
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BETA PHOTO: You can see that pretty much anything to the left ...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.

Getting There 

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Alternative directions: The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins' and 'Shady Rock' areas) is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side. 'The Muffins' can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head past 'The Muffins', and down the gully towards the right. You will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Waterfall Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Waterfall Cliff:
Lieback Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Leading to Death   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Greeboo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Degeneration   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Falls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Putrefaction   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Oracle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Convulsions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Clamydia   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Anti-Christ   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Waterfall Cliff

Featured Route For Waterfall Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga below the crux of "Clamydia&quo...

Clamydia 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Waterfall Cliff
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires i...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Waterfall Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Telephoto: Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto: Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff

Comments on Waterfall Cliff Add Comment
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By LukeZK
From: Cambridge, MA
Sep 2, 2015
Note there are numerous bolted routes not included in the MountainProject list; use descriptions to find routes (and please consider adding to them). The bolts are often quite sparse - so be careful when leading without trad pro.