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Hwy 33/Ojai

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Derrydale Cliff 
Foothill Crag ("The Foot") 
Fortress, The 
Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering 
Matilija Wall 
Potrero John 
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) 
Shelf Ridge 
Upper Foothill (The Hideout) 
Wheeler Gorge 
Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss") 

Hwy 33/Ojai Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.4873, -119.303 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 169,476
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Forecast:
Today

78° | 52°
Wednesday

79° | 51°
Thursday

75° | 48°
Friday

77° | 49°
Saturday

80° | 52°
Sunday

87° | 55°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Humboldt Lilies, growing along Hwy-33 above Ojai

Description 

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

  • Wheeler Gorge (aka Twin Tunnels) - 21.0 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.
  • Pine Mountain - east of Hwy 33, north of Pine Mountain Inn, and 52.5 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.

Getting There 

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

327 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',123],['2 Stars',101],['1 Star',74],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',11],['5.8',13],['5.9',27],['5.10',39],['5.11',18],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',81],['V2-3',30],['V4-5',38],['V6-7',14],['V8-9',10],['V10-11',8],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hwy 33/Ojai

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hwy 33/Ojai:
Rapunzel   V1 5 R     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
New Ways to get from A to B   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Dirt Bag   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Quiet Soul   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. Heaven on Top)   V3 6A     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Painted Carnival   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Picnic Area Boulders
Dissing Euros   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Tree Root   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Pipe Cleaner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 160'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Ending Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Cobble Climb   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Cruiser   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Ezra   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Free to Choose   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   The Fortress : Right Side Gully
Permanent Income Hypothesis   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   The Fortress : Right Side Gully
South of the Trout Farm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Stolen From Mike   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   Wheeler Gorge
Economique   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wheeler Gorge
Danger Boy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wheeler Gorge
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Wheeler Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hwy 33/Ojai

Featured Route For Hwy 33/Ojai
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Hartmann on 'Mystical Weapons'.

Mystical Weapons V7 7A+  California : Central Coast : ... : The Hideout
Begin from a sit and gain the aréte. A couple pockets up high lead to the top.The standing start is V4....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Hwy 33/Ojai Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Natural Mystic
Natural Mystic
Rock Climbing Photo: Sespe Backcountry.
Sespe Backcountry.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at Whee...
Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at Whee...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ojai Valley.
The Ojai Valley.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.12a...
Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.12a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheele...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheele...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
BETA PHOTO: Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview

Comments on Hwy 33/Ojai Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008
Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area
By t-rev
Feb 7, 2009
Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route.
By C Runyan
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2009
t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2010
I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained.
By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 12, 2010
I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers?
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 6, 2012
For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 3, 2013
A workaday road that cuts through California's back story
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 25, 2017
Even on 100 degree days like those of the past week, it is possible to find climbable conditions along the Hwy-33 corridor. Wheeler can be down right pleasant as the narrow canyon usually generates its own air movement. Derrydale Cliff is in the shade until close to noon. Potrero John and Sespe have full shade from about 2pm onward.

On Saturday, when the temp was 101 at the site, we climbed Derrydale all morning and Potrero all afternoon, with some time by the creek in between.The day was surprisingly enjoyable.

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