REI Community
search
Advanced
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adipose T 
Aerie Interlude T 
Alchemy T 
Bushwhacker T 
California Weakender T 
Chinese Chicken T 
Compleat Angler, The T 
Dame El Oro T 
Diminishing Returns T 
Double Trouble T 
Electric Chair T 
Fall Line T 
Fingerlings T 
Fire and Sage T 
Fissuremen T 
Full Clip T 
Fun Soup T 
Gas Chamber T,TR 
Gateway T 
Geologic Time T 
Gold Rush T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hip to Toe T 
Horse With No Name T 
JR Token T 
Landing a Monster T 
Long March, The T 
Martian Chronicles, The T 
May Fly, The T 
Midas Touch T 
Monster T 
Mr. Squiggles T 
Muffin Top T 
Out of the Question T 
Out Ridin' Fences T 
Pan Handlin' T 
Pumphouse Park T 
Purple Pinky Eater T 
Question Air Box, The T 
Redd Alert T 
Redside T 
Reservation Blues T 
Rightway T 
River Wide, The T 
Rocinante T 
Shushaynsh T,TR 
Slim Pickens T 
Space Between, The T 
Space Mission T 
Steelhead T 
Straightway T 
Suzuki T 
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 
Time Bomb T 
Two Step Left T 
Two Step Right T 
U3 T,TR 
U4 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wengerbanger T 
Winter Sustenance T 
Wondertwins T 

California Weakender 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, Jeff Wenger, 4/07
Page Views: 3,933
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jesse B. sending

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome, varied climbing. Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack that will take you to the ledge. From here, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains. This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.

Location 

Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. California Weakender climbs the crack to the stembox left of the block.

Protection 

Doubles of BD's O C3 to #2 C4 with an extra #3 C4. Most people place in a smaller crack in the back of the wide crack to avoid hauling up big cams. I was wishing I had slings to extend some of these placements.


Photos of California Weakender Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender.  To ac...
Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender. To ac...

Comments on California Weakender Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Jun 2, 2013

Relatively hard for the 11- grade compared to say U4. Cool line and climbs more like a granite route. A Stopper fits really well for first move off the pillar... Some may want an extra #1 Camalot for last move.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

This is a fantastic climb that has something for everyone. I even got to use my signature beached whale technique--twice. I brought a #6 mastercam (≈#1 Camalot) to protect the roof move, but found myself wishing I had instead saved my Camalot .75.
By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Dec 11, 2014

You can protect the top wide bit below the roof with a .75 off the rest and then a #3 with a sling which can be walked up until you can get a piece in the roof. Might need to have longish arms though.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About