REI Community
California Ridge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Denied T,TR 
Ayatollah S 
Band Aids On Road Rash T 
California Five-Eleven A S,TR 
Case Dismissed T,S 
Guilty As Charged S 
Mullah S 

California Ridge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.2261, -122.0991 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,240
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009


76° | 61°

85° | 63°

83° | 61°

81° | 61°

81° | 61°
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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


An offwidth, some face climbing and a few cool roofs make up the mixed sport/trad climbing of California Ridge. Possible to toprope routes as well. Off the beaten path and in the Western Addition area of Castle Rock State Park.

Routes are maybe 50' or so. Cool views of the ocean and Monterey Bay.

Getting There 

Same as Aron's description to get to Chew Tooth (thanks Aron):

Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.

From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).

Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.

This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.

Now that you're at Chew tooth, resist the urge to take the right fork of the trail but instead follow the trail straight and in a minute or so you will see the top of California Ridge ahead. It is on the right side of the trail as it makes a sharp left turn. You can set up a toprope or follow the trail around to the left of the formation

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in California Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for California Ridge:
Mullah   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
Guilty As Charged   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   
Access Denied   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 50'   
California Five-Eleven A   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in California Ridge

Featured Route For California Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: The tough start of Access Denies

Access Denied 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : California Ridge
Cool 5.11 moves up into an inside corner. Once in the corner it's easy (5.8) stemming, hand jams and some face moves up to a ledge. Moderate (5.9+) face climbing to the top. Two bolt (spinners) anchor with a backup over the lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of California Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cal Eleven A Photo: Jim Thornberg
Cal Eleven A Photo: Jim Thornberg
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on California Ridge.
Adam on California Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ean finishes the off width on California Ridge.
Ean finishes the off width on California Ridge.

Comments on California Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By fxct
Jun 14, 2015
Anchor bolts to either side are looking questionable. The middle anchor bolts look newish and bomber. If you're gonna climb here take a good hard look at everything first. The anchors over the warmup (right) look especially bad; just don't. I've climbed on the ones to the left before about 2 years ago... not sure I would again.
By FourT6and2 Haftel
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 27, 2016
Yep... bolts/hangers to the far left and far right are sketchy. Hangers in the middle, to either side of the crack, are good (but spinning). Bolts are rusted button heads. But seem to be pretty solid.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 5, 2017
many (but not all) of the bolts at cal ridge were replaced with 6" or 8" SS glue-ins on 6/4/17. please do not TR off the rings, TR on your own gear. thanks!

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