REI Community
California Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Denied T,TR 
Ayatollah S 
Band Aids On Road Rash T 
California Five-Eleven A S,TR 
Case Dismissed T,S 
Guilty As Charged S 
Mullah S 

California Five-Eleven A 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton and David Caunt, 1991
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009  with updates from Lukas Wiborg and 2 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Dimitri Barton on the FA of "California Five-...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

At the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook...

Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.

Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.

Location 

Located at the left end of California Ridge in the middle of a roof maybe 8' off the deck and 3' deep or so. Two bolts nearly horizontal with each other mark the start a few feet left of the inside corner (Access Denied)

Protection 

5 draws. More arms than I've got. Quite difficult to clip the second clip. Bring something to extend the clip just above the lip otherwise the gate will rub right on it.

Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.


Photos of California Five-Eleven A Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cal Eleven A Photo: Jim Thornberg
Cal Eleven A Photo: Jim Thornberg

Comments on California Five-Eleven A Add Comment
Show which comments
By Julian Bobilev
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Easily 5.11d in my opinion. The long, hard crux beta took us over three hours to finally figure out.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 19, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Probably more like 5.12a since the infamous "dog dick" toe lock broke under the roof. Harder now than in the past in any case.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Dimitri Barton and David Caunt did the FA of California Five-Eleven A in 1991.
By grabski
From: N California
Jun 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Agree on 12a. I didn't climb it before the hold broke, but the bouldery crux feels harder than 11+ now anyway. Probably want to place a long draw on the bolt over the lip. Otherwise the rope-side carabiner can get loaded on the edge.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About