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California Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,982
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Olivia pointing out the California Crack


Just right of "Mikado", Move up, then left under a roof. Then straight up.


Pro to 2.5".

Photos of California Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: California Crack
California Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: "California Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "California Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading California Crack, with Morgan.  Photo by J...
Leading California Crack, with Morgan. Photo by J...

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By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 26, 2007

A very fun climb. This climb has a fun little roof about 15-20 feet off the floor.
By Tradiban
Dec 22, 2012

Red C3 perfect for the crux.
By Richard Shore
Dec 29, 2012

Gets an "R" rating in the Miramontes guide, but I don't think it is warranted. You can pre-protect the start by scrambling up into the "cave" and threading a 4' sling through a nice hole under the roof. An amazing knee-bar (no hands rest) takes the bite out of the crux and allows for easy gear placement.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Feb 18, 2013

Going with just that first sling and placing next at the knee bar would be runout, if one has to rely on not falling through an unprotected stretch. Danger not so much from decking but from the possible big penji fall smacking leader rightward back against the side of the cave, as one local did a long while ago and broke his back (full recovery). Other interesting first pro also possible at mentioned spot, that would more readily allow placement on the go, without pre-placing.
By verticalbound
Apr 15, 2013

tons of fun moves, if youve got good foot work and wear pants i felt like there were so many places you could half hold and place a piece in the roof, tons of possibilities get creative. knee moves make it not to pumpy.
By J Kazu
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 2, 2017

Very fun. Placing gear to protect the roof before the good stance at the crux above the lip was tricky; small, shallow and limited placements.
By Hugo Almanza
From: Tucson, Arizona
Feb 23, 2017

Red C3 is pretty awesome for the transition to vert. I also found later on inspection that a yellow DMM offset alloy (#7?) fits even better.

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