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5.10b Toprope TR 
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California Coast 

A2 PG13

Type:  Aid, 100'
Original: A2 PG13 [details]
FA: Bruce Price and Frank Jager in 1968
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Dec 22, 2012

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A nice line with interesting placements down low up to a sketch traverse to a sweet left-slanting crack to the rim.


The obvious line with the crack high on the cliff, to the right of the other routes, facing west.


LA's and KB's, hooks...for the traverse right to the left-slanting crack, bring little bolts to tap into existing holes...or drill out and put in some permanent ones.
Once at the crack, KB's and stoppers to the top.

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By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 4, 2014

I'd love to hear about someone else leading this and what they thought . . .
By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 6, 2015
rating: C3+ X

I played around on solo top rope on this today. I ended up freeing the route up to just after the traverse and cut off. The upper section of the crack looks insanely hard to free. I'll be going back with some aid gear to play around on it when I get a chance.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Apr 22, 2015

Way Kool! Post some fotografs when you do!
By Evan Wisheropp
May 4, 2015
rating: C3+ X

Well, I went back and aided this thing finally. I went hammerless and sans pitons to try it clean, Wow, I'm glad I did it on solo-TR! LOTS of hook moves with very little pro you could leave up until the crack (unless you had knifeblades to hammer in). C3++

I left the TR super slacked for the excitement, and I took four daisy falls in three spots when hooks sheared sections off little chunks of rock. Wild! Towards the end of the traverse, a seemingly perfect hook blew when the a chunk of rock gave way, then the crappy looking hook I had already stepped off of caught my daisy fall 4 feet later. Six feet later, another hook sheered rock as I was in the middle of placing a flared ball-nut, and the ball-nut held.

Near the old fixed pin at the top, I was standing on an inverted wide cam hook as the rock crumbled around it and it started to pull bit by bit. I quickly hand placed a sideways Tomahawk next to it and before I could test it or adjust the daisy chain, the rock finished crumbling and the hook blew. Another three foot daisy fall, but the tomahawk caught it!

Thin knifeblades and some rurps would be necessary if you wanted to lead it, I personally had my fill, and would be glad to call that enough!

A3+ / C3+
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 4, 2015

Sounds like a blast! I recall stacking some pins early on and being gripped until the crack provided more security. No wonder it hasn't seen many ascents.

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