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Sunshine Face - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 
Caliente T 
Chisholm Trail T 
Clockwork Orange T 
Domestic Friction S 
Euphoria T 
Hit It, Ethel T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 
Paisano Chimney T 
Runout in Reverse T 
Someone You're Not T 
Source, The T 
Tar and Feathers T 
Yaniro's Arch TR 

Caliente 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Bachar, 1978
Page Views: 2,105
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008

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Starting the crux. Climber: Darrell Hensel. Phot...

Description 

Superb climbing on great rock.

Pitch 1: Scramble up easy climbing and belay at a bolt anchor (40' left of Paisano Chimney). A short crack leads to 5.10c face climbing that takes you to the black intrusion. A series of difficult reaches presents the crux of the pitch on the intrusion. Above the crux, runout 5.10d climbing takes one into a left leaning arch. A belay may be set up in the arch using a bolt plus gear. Pitch 2: 5.10c climbing follows the arch to it's end, then up the easy face. A variation can also be done to the second pitch: from the belay step down a few moves, then pull over the arch and climb just above the lip of the arch (10d), tending left.

Protection 

Bolts, thin gear to 2"


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Rock Climbing Photo: Caliente
BETA PHOTO: Caliente

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 8, 2008

Among the great climbs at Suicide, Valhalla, Insomnia and New Gen, Caliente stands out as way good. A real classic with just enough runout to make you quiver- four big stars.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 29, 2009

"All told, I think Caliente (5.12b) is the finest route at Suicide. You clip a bolt and cast off; and 15 feet out there's no fooling anyone. Even so, nearly 10 years after John Bachar's on-sight, first ascent, which included a long whistler, you can see poltroons inspecting the crux by toprope. Maybe in hopes of catching up with the French.

Next time you meet someone claiming that American standards are a myth, give him a roadmap to Idyllwild. There is little fanfare, and the routes are not touted as world breakers. But ever so quietly, some pretty stiff stuff has gone up. Give it a look. "

John Long
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 30, 2009

The rating on this route has gone through some interesting transitions. Initially, I think Bachar called it 11+. Not.

When I first did it, it had managed to evolve to 12a (a really stout one) where it stayed for several years. In the above post it's referenced as 12b. The current guide calls it 12c, hence, the rating it has on this description.

Whatever. If the grade is within a letter or two it's good to go. You can decide the minutia of the letters for yourself.

There was a thread on ST shortly after Bachars death that discussed this route.

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 5, 2009

"Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell had spotted this line and put in the first few bolts"
By Darrell Hensel
Sep 8, 2009

As much as we would have liked to have discovered/started Caliente, the fact is that we didn't. I'm not really sure how that inaccuracy came about, I think that perhaps Rick Accomazzo was under the impression that we were responsible. The bolts on the initial slab, as well as the crux intrusion bolt, were placed by John Long and Richard Harrison.
By rmuir Muir
Mar 23, 2017

On Supertopo, Johnny says that the first bolt was put in by Ivan (Bud) Couch. Long and Harrison added add'l bolts.

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