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Calculus Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kris Wild, Adrian Jones, Tavis Thomson
Page Views: 1,493
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Aug 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Description 

One way to get to Baseline Ledge and the start of Calculus Crack is to climb the first two pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. This is an alternative method that provides a couple of fun pitches.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Move up to the bolt and climb past it to get on to the slab to its right. Move a few feet to the right to get to a left-facing dihedral. Make a tricky move to get into the corner and climb it until some flakes are encountered (maybe 40 or 50 feet). Climb the flakes but trend to the right to a sloping ledge with several cracks above it. Make a gear belay here.

(This pitch is also the start for Start from Scratch; if you continue up the corner instead of stepping right, you'd be on that route.)

Pitch 2 (5.8): climb a steep hand crack, move slightly left on cracks, and climb a face with intermittent cracks and pods until you can see a two-bolt anchor. Traverse a few feet to the right to that anchor. Verbal communication with your second will be difficult from the top of the second pitch because of road noise and your second being out of sight.

You're now at the base of Calculus Crack.

(The route name and first ascent information was obtained from "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon.)

Location 

The start of this is a bit to the left and uphill from the start of St. Vitus' Dance. Look carefully for a bolt in a shallow left-facing corner about ten feet off the ground; that's the start.

Protection 

Same rack as for Calculus Crack. Mostly finger-sized gear for the corner on pitch one and finger- and hand-sized gear for the second pitch.


Comments on Calculus Direct Add Comment
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By Santiago Santacruz
From: Urbana, IL
Apr 7, 2016

First pitch remains wet long after rain (>7 sunny days in spring). Unless you want to aid it or feel comfortable on the 5.9W(wet) grade use St Vitus' Dance start up to Baseline ledge.
By ihategrigris
From: Vancouver, BC
Jun 12, 2017

This climb sucks. No matter what route you take after it, it will be the worse pitch you do all day. Dirty, slippery and awkward. If you have the option, go pull on trees instead, way more fun.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 14, 2017

This is a great route and imho, the only way to start Calculus Crack (assuming its dry). A little grunt getting into the corner and then some thin 5.9 up to some thank god jugs before moving right to the (optional) belay.

With a 70m line these pitches are easily linked to the bolts at the base of Calculus.

Also, in response to the previous comment- it's super clean, definitely not slippery, and while I wouldn't call it awkward, it is fairly engaging and not straight forward.
By KrisW
Aug 28, 2017

Further to the previous comments, The first pitch was dirty and slippery due to the cleaning of the new route to it's left. It has since been buffed back to sparkly clean.

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