Calanque d'En Vau Rock Climbing
Looking down on En Vau from the top of "Saphi...
En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.
There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park at the big parking area at the Col de Gardiole (off route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille) and follow the red/white trail, about a 40-minute walk. The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance but more elevation gain/loss (according to one local map the hike to En Vau is about 1 hr, 40 minutes).
Climbing Season For the France area.
Weather station 22.1 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Calanque d'En Vau
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Calanque d'En Vau
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Calanque d'En Vau:
Featured Route For Calanque d'En Vau
Saphir 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: ... : La Saphir
Saphir ascends a long ridge just to the right of the Petite Aiguille. Its five pitches range from 5.6 to 5.9 (according to the chart in the Rockfax book about the Côte d'Azur). The climbing is generally moderate and varied. The decidedly alpine second pitch can be done in two pitches. The next to last pitch is definitely the crux, because it's so polished. But with a little care, it can be handled. Be forewarned, Saphir can get really crowded. So you may find yourself passing or being passed by...[more] Browse More Classics in International
looking out at le doigt de dieu
Looking back at the Grand Aiguille after climbing ...
En Vau from low on La Saphir
BETA PHOTO: En Vau from the top of La Saphir
Great sea level traverse goes for a loooong way. ...
A view of the Calanques d'En Vau on a gloomy day. ...
En vau. Beaches full of delightful scenery.
En vau- 1980. The routes were all polished then!
Super Sirene, an absolute classic route and a feat...
En Vau...follow the turquoise.
Port Miou, on the way to the secluded En Vau.
By Evan Oro
From: New Mexico
Nov 12, 2015
Climbed here during a trip to France. It is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've been to. The approach was a little tricky as we got lost a few time, but found it without to much difficulty. You can climb in the morning and late afternoon and avoid the mid day heat by swimming at the beach or crush all day on some of the multi pitch climbs.
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 21, 2016
One of the earliest areas to be explored, En Vau provides a beautiful and secluded (except for the tourist boats) climbing experience. Tucked away in a small valley near Port Miou, En Vau offers a variety routes just above a private beach with turquoise water. The most prominent features include Petite Aiguille and Super Sirene. Super Sirene may have been the first 5.10 in Les Calanques, put up by Paul Guerin and Gaston Rebuffet in 1941. The routes here are sandbagged and very polished after 70+ years of travel. A worthy venture.