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Calanque d'En Vau

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American Spur 
La Saphir 
Petite Aiguille 

Calanque d'En Vau Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.20246, 5.49794 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,883
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gini Kramer on Nov 6, 2013
Forecast:
Sunday

60° | 48°
Monday

60° | 46°
Tuesday

62° | 52°
Wednesday

62° | 53°
Thursday

60° | 55°
Friday

59° | 54°
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Looking down on En Vau from the top of "Saphi...

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Description 

En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.

Getting There 

There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park at the big parking area at the Col de Gardiole (off route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille) and follow the red/white trail, about a 40-minute walk. The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance but more elevation gain/loss (according to one local map the hike to En Vau is about 1 hr, 40 minutes).

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.1 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Calanque d'En Vau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Calanque d'En Vau:
Saphir   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   La Saphir
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Calanque d'En Vau

Featured Route For Calanque d'En Vau
Rock Climbing Photo: Em rapping off the route.

Directe de Droite De La Diagnole 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Europe : France : ... : Petite Aiguille
This is the most challenging route up the La Petite Aiguille. The pitch offers great, though polished, face climbing up the south face....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Calanque d'En Vau Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking out at le doigt de dieu
looking out at le doigt de dieu
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at the Grand Aiguille after climbing ...
Looking back at the Grand Aiguille after climbing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: En Vau from low on La Saphir
En Vau from low on La Saphir
Rock Climbing Photo: En Vau from the top of La Saphir
BETA PHOTO: En Vau from the top of La Saphir
Rock Climbing Photo: Calanque En Vau beach.
Calanque En Vau beach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great sea level traverse goes for a loooong way.  ...
Great sea level traverse goes for a loooong way. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the Calanques d'En Vau on a gloomy day. ...
A view of the Calanques d'En Vau on a gloomy day. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: En vau.   Beaches full of delightful scenery.
En vau. Beaches full of delightful scenery.
Rock Climbing Photo: En vau- 1980.  The routes were all polished then!
En vau- 1980. The routes were all polished then!
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Sirene, an absolute classic route and a feat...
Super Sirene, an absolute classic route and a feat...
Rock Climbing Photo: En Vau...follow the turquoise.
En Vau...follow the turquoise.
Rock Climbing Photo: Port Miou, on the way to the secluded En Vau.
Port Miou, on the way to the secluded En Vau.

Comments on Calanque d'En Vau Add Comment
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By Evan Oro
From: New Mexico
Nov 12, 2015
Climbed here during a trip to France. It is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've been to. The approach was a little tricky as we got lost a few time, but found it without to much difficulty. You can climb in the morning and late afternoon and avoid the mid day heat by swimming at the beach or crush all day on some of the multi pitch climbs.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 21, 2016
One of the earliest areas to be explored, En Vau provides a beautiful and secluded (except for the tourist boats) climbing experience. Tucked away in a small valley near Port Miou, En Vau offers a variety routes just above a private beach with turquoise water. The most prominent features include Petite Aiguille and Super Sirene. Super Sirene may have been the first 5.10 in Les Calanques, put up by Paul Guerin and Gaston Rebuffet in 1941. The routes here are sandbagged and very polished after 70+ years of travel. A worthy venture.