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Cage Match 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Woodruff
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on May 13, 2012

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  • South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>
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  • Protection 

    9 bolts plus anchor

    Location 

    Climbs the center of the main cave at Area 51. Look for the diagonal crack at the start and the splitter crack on the finishing headwall. Fully equipped with chain draws.

    Description 

    You'll understand where this route gets its name from when you lower from the chains, panting and covered with scrapes from head to toe. Essentially a crack climb, this route has been done on gear, and would be quite manageable to lead on gear if it weren't for the first 4 bolts of face and roof climbing.

    The Williams guidebook recommends stick clipping the second bolt. Begin on some vertical terrain, climbing past a diagonal crack to a large jug. Pump out the roof on some good flakes and get ready for the technical crux at the fourth bolt. Make your way up in a chimney for a no hands rest. Exit the chimney with some 3D moves, being sure to not get wrapped up in the rope. If you're not fully bewildered at this point the final move to a jug at the sixth bolt will definitely get you a bit confused.

    At the sixth bolt you reach the offwidth crack. The rock turns bleached white and the remaining bolts are widely spaced. The higher you climb the thinner the crack becomes, tapering all the way down to thin hands. Good rests and clipping stances keep the crack from getting too pumpy. The crack section is roughly 11a.

    A healthy dose of kneebaring reduces the difficulty of this pitch. Not a good pick for a rainy day since the crack above gets soaked.


    Comments on Cage Match Add Comment
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    By ChrisHau
    Apr 29, 2017

    This climb is unlike any sport route I've ever done, probably because it's an offwidth/crack climb masquerading as a sport climb.

    The crack section up high protects nicely with a .4 or .5 Camalot, if the runout has you spooked.

    Or just go whole hog and do the second half of the climb on gear - it actually feels safer.
    By Mike Nevko
    From: Currently Charlotte
    1 hour ago

    I agree with Chris, this is wild "sport" climb. Probably one of the most consistently try hard climbs, I've been on.

    Key beta: Go full animal. Be flexible like snake, supple like a jaguar, voice of grizzly, and the cardiovascular system of a cheetah,

    After the exciting chimney exit, get ready for the haul to the top. The rest of the dark climbing arts are thrown at you. Bring your crack climbing game.

    This aint a standard clip up, exciting clips (with manual closing of the gates :) )
    A Very, Very, Satisfying Climb. Cheers to Jim for this thing.

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