REI Community
Java Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Americano S 
Caffeine S 
Cappuccino S 
Daily Grind S 
Daily Java S 
Death Before Decaf S 
Espresso S 
French Roast S 
Java S 
Kona S 
Ramp Route S 
Sumatra S 


YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, Sean Zavala 1996
Page Views: 5,199
Submitted By: Meredith DB on Jul 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the anchor. Below you can see th...

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>


Start up the easy ramp, as for Espresso. From the top of the ramp, move right and climb a steep dihedral.


Java Wall, right of Espresso.


12 bolts to bolted anchor.

Comments on Caffeine Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 13, 2016
By protohyp designs
Oct 13, 2009

People really need to start rapping off these anchors. the right anchor is worn almost 1/2 the way through.
By RussellG
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

In addition to rapping if you are going to 'top rope' put draws in and don't go directly off the hooks.
By anil
From: San Carlos
Mar 3, 2013

The anchors on the top especially, the left looks it will snap anytime soon(3/2/2013). Beware if you're getting on this route and preparing to rappel.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Another situation where a climber has disregarded ...
Another situation where a climber has disregarded the local ethic and placed his rope directly through the shuts.

--- Invalid image id: 108195451 ---
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the climber leading up to the anchors on Ca...
Here's the climber leading up to the anchors on Caffeine, just prior to abusing the anchor by placing his rope directly through the shuts. Recognize him?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

We witnessed four parties toproping directly through the shuts on "Espresso," "Caffeine," "Bushwacked," and "The Hunger." When told it would be best to place their own draws/gear to preserve the anchors, their response was, "Yeah, we know." Another party responded, "my girlfriend only weighs 100 pounds and that won't wear the anchor much." But the practice continued on to other climbs for the remainder of the day. Better to hammer the shuts closed or replace the shuts with chains to discourage abuse of the anchors. Although, the party on "Bushwacked" took the time to thread their rope through the Fixe rings in order to TR directly through the anchor.
By Will Cornell
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just sent this route today.... anchors need to be replaced ASAP.
By Joe Wysznski
Nov 16, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The photo above is of Americano not Caffeine.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 13, 2014

Caffeine, Americano, Cappuccino, Espresso, what's the differencio??? The anchors are still being abused. For that matter, the anchors on ALL these climbs, and more, show significant wear/grooving to prove it. Echo Cliffs deserves better than this!!
By Brian Treanor
Feb 21, 2015

Was working Kona today (with spectacular lack of success). Looking over to the anchors on Caffeine caused me to shudder. Two nice guys and a girl has been top roping it just before I got on Kona (and they were top roping, properly, of slings, not the hooks). But once their slings were off the hooks I could see how bad they were. Obviously I was on a different route, so I was looking from several feet to the left, but I don't think I would top-rope off these, slings or no, and I know for sure I would not let my kids or wife do so. Grim. I'd replace them, but I'm afraid I'd botch the job. I've been climbing since 1982, but I've never placed a bolt. I'd be happy to chip in the money for the shuts and to belay and support someone who knows what he or she is doing. Ideally someone who has their shite dialed can school me on the nuances of bolt extraction, placement, and maintenance. There are several I'd be willing to address on routes I'm working or my kids are working. The hooks on Caffeine look like a time bomb.
By Coon
Apr 10, 2015

Bummer to hear what's going on with the anchors. Anyone know if there's a hike to rap point above this? Im assuming this is how they were put up.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I appreciate the effort people put into keep these routes good and safe, but if you want people to not run the rope directly through the anchor, you need to use just bolts and rap rings. That's how the rest of the country does it. Open shuts or carabiners promotes this type of habit. We used draws to lower/TR and then rapped, but putting just rings helps to encourage everyone to do this. I think one of the 8s on left flank is just rings and its great. It's also safer for people TRing than having open shuts. Just my $0.02.
By Maidy
Jan 13, 2016

FYI:Open shut anchor replacement at Echo is EXTREMELY difficult and labor intensive. It's NEVER- a quick fix. It's the reason these anchors go so long without maintenance and can get so dangerous. PLEASE do not TR through any of the anchors. Please let folks know and tell them why they shouldn't do it.

PS:Having rap rings actually doesn't change the situation at Echo. People STILL take the time to re-thread and TR off the rings. I see ropes through rap rings almost every time I go down there. The lazy entitled mind-set needs to change-- not the type of anchor. The only true deterrent would be chains that are too small to TR through- which is a PIA to clean on steep routes.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About