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(e) Western Ship - River Face
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Caffeine Free S 
Caffiene Free Finish S 
Mr. Yuk S 
Nacho Libre S 
Phone Call From Satan S 
Power S 
Purple Headed Warrior S 
Slit Your Wrist S 
Solar T 
Time's Up S 

Caffeine Free 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,487
Submitted By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006

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Caffeine Free

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Caffeine Free is the leftmost of the bolted routes on the river face of the West ship, following a thin seam and some pockets to an anchor below Solar. Caffeine Free can be easily recognized because there are two bolts at the first stance. One is a bad spinner.

Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges. You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend. Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest. Pay attention to your feet. After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor. There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.


Bolts. The first bolt may look high and the climbing tricky, but the moves to get there are quite reasonable-- look for a subtle finger pocket that is easy to miss.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 14, 2015
By BSwett
From: Bend, Or.
Oct 18, 2012

Did the 11a finish pitch today. Yes it's a little dirty, and some of the holds are a bit suspicious, but totally worth it.
I've never seen anyone on this thing. If it gets some more traffic, and the loose sandy stuff cleans up, it's gonna end up being a three star climb. Pretty sure a 60m rope will get you to the top from the ground (fun!). We lowered with single rope, 2 raps.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Dec 19, 2012

This climb is DEF not .10c. It was listed as .10a in the original Smith Book, but got upgraded to .10b in the new Smith Book. This was a mistake. Caffeine Free is 5.10a.
By another Chad
Dec 23, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Feels like a solid 5.10b to me. Caffeine Free is my favorite line of the base routes on this buttress.

By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jan 3, 2014

The finish is definitely worth it. It has more character than the usual routes on the morning glory that typically attract the crowds. It will only improve with time as it gets cleaned up - however, it is not as bad as some of the rock on the back side.
By Justin Sarvela
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Mar 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Watch out for the huge jug around the third bolt (already forgot exactly where, but you can't miss it)! Thought I was going to pull it off going up to the next hold. To be safe, use the lower left side of it, it doesn't move nor drop tiny bits of pebbles when you touch it.
By Rehanah Spence
Mar 24, 2014

That hold that Justin mentioned around the third bolt broke off yesterday (March 23). It is still a very positive hold, besides being a little sandy for now. Luckily no one was injured.
By Macauley Berg
From: Estacada, OR
Mar 29, 2014

Yeah i was with justin, luckily he gave me the heads up on it otherwise i probably wouldve been the one to tear it off ;)
By jason ca
Apr 16, 2014

felt like 10a/b. super fun route that deserves more credit. upper finish was in no way 11a as published in newest smith book. maybe 10c? caffeine finish is dirty but will only get better over time.
By MeghanK
Mar 23, 2015

Felt around .10a to me. Great feet, and good stances to clip.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I was told beforehand this was to be a measly 5.9. When my feet popped off those tiny nubbins I suspected something was amiss. Sandbaggers.
By Erik Keever
Dec 14, 2015

Mitch: They might have honestly miscounted routes (There's a newish line right of Phone Call that isn't in the 2008 guide) and thought Caffeine was Phone Call From Satan, which is a 5.9.

But anyway... a sandbag? At Smith Rock? Surely you jest! :)

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