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Café Kraft 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: P. Naumann, 1989
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014

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Café Kraft follows the line white stone in the ce...

Description 

This gymnastic line is easily the best line in the Ankatalturm cave. The rock is excellent, and a bit unusual for the Frankenjura, resembling pocketed volcanic stone (like rhyolite) in shape and texture. Despite its length, it ultimately boils down to a four or five move boulder problem to gain the headwall above the steeply undercut start.

Begin atop a large boulder, and make a series of difficult stabs into less-than-sinker two finger pockets. Struggle over the lip, where a few well-earned jugs provide a good shake. Wander up the wall, performing short boulder problems between great rests (including a no-hands, sit down rest on a ledge). The climbing eases as the route ascends, but the cumulative pump keeps it interesting to the end.

Location 

On the left side of the cave, this one has a plaque.

Protection 

6 bolts to an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.


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