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AJ with perfect form cruises the 5.9 crux of Cadil...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
At the very base of the Whiskey Peak
descent gully, on the south side, is a clean offwidth crack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb the offwidth past a small overhang to an alcove, then chimney and jam a handcrack to a large ledge. Rappel with 2 ropes.
Historical note by Larry DeAngelo: I was researching history for Red Rock Odyssey at the time of Randal Grandstaff's death in 2002. His widow, Laura, graciously allowed me to sift through an entire trunk of slides and photographs that Randal had taken. Among them was a picture of the the striking Cadillac Crack that had been taken in January, 1975. At the time, Randal was at the beginning of what was to become an illustrious climbing career under the tutelage of local master Joe Herbst. In light of Joe and Randal's friendship, and Joe's affinity for wide cracks, it is inconceivable to me that they did not climb this route. The name was given by me, inspired by Randal's Chrysler Crack (this one is a nicer ride!).
Bring the usual rack, plus some large stuff in the six-inch range. Update: recently (2006) a bolt has appeared to protect the crux section of the crack, so really large gear is not actually needed.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Agreed that no big gear is needed with the bolt in place. I had nothing bigger than a #4, and that worked. Could bring a #6 if the bolt is not enough.
By Scott Cooper
Nov 4, 2013
I found the only gear you really will use is as many fours as you can carry, a couple 5's and two 1's and one 2.
Fantastic route, you get what you came for with this one.