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Caddis Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Curving Corner T 
Glow Bug T 
Orange Zonker T 
Prince Nymph TR 
San Juan Worm TR 
Unknown Spire S 
Wooly Bugger T,S 

Caddis Cliff Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 8,000'
Page Views: 2,096
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 16, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: A few more routes on Caddis Cliff. A.Prince Nymph ...


Caddis Cliff is a small south-facing cliff on the north side of the river. Most of the rock is rather broken up, but two bolted routes and a moderate trad line have been done. A very nice arete and a small spire in the middle of the wall make the river crossing worth the effort. The arete and the trad line are listed in BG's guide. The crag gets enough sun to offer a pleasant side trip even in December.

Getting There 

Drive East 4.7 miles from the Mall Road. Park 100 yards downstream from the crag in large pullout. Wade the river or wait until it freezes enough to walk across.


A. Prince Nymph, 11+ R/X, 1p, TR or gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.

Climbing Season

For the Big Thompson Canyon area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Caddis Cliff

San Juan Worm 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Colorado : Estes Park Valley : ... : Caddis Cliff
If you have a rope on the anchors of the Unknown Spire, you might check this one out.Climb up the left side of the pillar on right-trending cracks to a body sized pod. Stem, chimney, and grunt to an interesting move right to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Caddis Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Caddis Cliff showing the known routes.
BETA PHOTO: Caddis Cliff showing the known routes.

Comments on Caddis Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By allen simons
Dec 18, 2006
Nice photo! Are these the only two lines on the cliff? Looks like there could be several others. Allen
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 19, 2006
Allen, we were a bit rushed and I did not look for other routes upstream. Certainly a few other trads routes could have been done, but a survey from the creek did not reveal any other bolted routes.
By boydpainting
From: Estes Park CO
Jan 27, 2010
The route names I have submitted are the names myself and the two or three people I climb here with use. No disrespect is intended to any FAs, and any info can be changed if need be. The route "Prince Nymph" may need a second or third opinion to dial in the rating. Two of us climbed it on TR and our average came out to 5.12b.

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