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Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 
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Serpent, The T 
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 
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Waterslip Down T 
Worth The Weight T 
X-it T 

Cactus Thieves 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Derek and Paul Davidson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Jun 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: A fun early spring break trip led to two new climb...

Description 

A suprisingly fun hand crack, much more reminescent of Overlook type climbing than Forks desperados. Which makes this one of the easier leads out here.

However, there is the big chockstone in the middle of the pitch. I personally didn't touch it, preferring to straight in jam the S crack.
Stemming off the huge thing makes the climbing more reasonable. "It's so big, it can't come out."

So you either climb a really clean crack by being contrived or you take your chances.

There was a lot of loose stuff we cleaned off this thing to get it in current shape. During that cleaning a small hidden cactus was disturbed and unearthed. After replanting it, I'm happy to say it is growing great guns and has bloomed for the first time.

This was my son's first trad lead and his first FA so it made for a great time for both of us.

Dirty ledges at the bottom and very top interrupt the clean middle section (ignoring the hanging judge.) If the climb stays clean and walking over a bit of rubble to start and top out don't bother folks, then it might turn into a trade route since it's not as desperate as most things out here.

Location 

Just right of Helter Skelter, out in no man's land. Start the easy way up to the block, over the block to the base of the curving hand crack.

Protection 

Standard rack... Mostly hand size stuff.


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