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Cactus Rose Cliff
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Cactus Rose 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on Sep 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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This is the cliff's namesake.... It is an obvious dihedral on the right face of the cliff. This is listed in the Shelf guide as 4 bolts with no anchor. Currently, it has 6 bolts and ring anchors (1st and 6th look new). Fun, committing climbing (scary clip at 3rd bolt, more runout climbing above) leads up to the 5th bolt. At this point according to the guide, you could traverse left to the anchors on E=mc2. Now a new bolt leads you up over a SHARP bulge to ring anchors. These moves felt harder than 11c, but it could have been the pain affecting my judgment....


6 bolts plus anchors.

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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I also thought this was pretty stiff for 11c. The span between bolts 2 and 3 is very intimidating and insecure. Getting to the anchors is extremely sharp.
By slim
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I remember my partner (who was probably in 7th grade at the time) peeling off this from around the 3rd bolt and coming really close to decking. It used to have 4 bolts, and they weren't exactly close together.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2015

VERY good route, but there is no way that the top bulge is 11c (felt like very painful V4 by itself, after resting on bolt).
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2016

Agreed. The top has a harder crux than many 12s I have done at Shelf. Fun one though minus the two sharp holds at the top crux. I'd give it classic status....

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