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Orange Sunshine area
Routes Sorted
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Cactus Love T 
Columns Holiday T,S 
Cross-eyed and Painless T 
Cutting Edge, The T 
Dancing Madly Backwards S 
Developing Arms T 
Entrance Exam T 
Jam Exam T 
Morning After S 
Orange Sunshine T 
Overlord, The S 
Paul Maul T 
Price of Complacency, The S 
Rap Route T 
Rough Boys T 
Serpent T 
Solar King T 
Stress Management S 
Thriller Pillar S 
Thriller Pillar, Left Side T 
Western Front T 
X-Factor T 

Cactus Love 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart, May 1987
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 24, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Will starting up Cactus Love.

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  • Description 

    this is another good 5.9 crack. Try to avoid the spooky chockstone ( seems to be well wedged) Fingers to hands, go to left side of roof at top.
    I have also gone up the crack on the right side of the roof, cringing at the mossy, crumbly slopers up top- traverse over to Solar King anchor.

    This route is a step up from Jam Exam with a few tricky gear placements and more thought provoking moves.

    Location 

    2nd crack right of Thriller Pillar, left of 11a finger crack- Solar king

    Protection 

    gear to 2", a #3 and #4 could be used in the left side fist section. There is no anchor, maybe rap off thriller pillar.


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