|Type:||Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Monte Swann on Apr 2, 2014|
|Comments on Cactus Kiss||Add Comment|
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By Daniel Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Dec 12, 2015
P1: 20 ft of 5.7/5.8 until you gain the arete and it is 5.2 to the anchors.
P2: Hard to tell where the route goes from the top of P1. But it is a crack that is a little hard to see from the anchor at your 12 o'clock. The crack has bushes in the first half and is unusable for gear or jamming. Climb the suspect face holds to the right to gain a splitter finger crack (5.4) for another 10 ft. From here if you look up and left you can see the anchor at the top of P2. Find the best route through all the bushes to make the final face moves past one bolt to an anchor.
P3: Go up past bolts to a ledge. Move right to a 3-4 ft vertical crack leading up to a suspect coffee table sized flake that forms a triangle shape at the top. CAUTION: THIS FLAKE FLEXED AND CREAKED WHEN I PULLED ON IT. It is definitely going to come off just a matter of time. Take extra care to not crank on it. This move (what gives this climb its 5.8 rating) can be protected to a certain extent but since the only decent rock is at the base of the ledge any fall at the crux would result in you decking.
Me and my partner thought this climb was a bomb. Recommend just avoiding. Juice wasnt worth the squeeze.