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Cactus Kiss 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Moise-Swann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Monte Swann on Apr 2, 2014

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  • Description 

    First pitch all bolts. As you pull up on ledge remember the name of the route. Second pitch starts with a few small to medium cams up broken face and finger crack then left to belay chains on face. Last pitch up bolted friction face to crux move through triangular roof (medium cam protected) and up past bolts and easy featured climbing to top chains. Four rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take frequent mending. Rap first pitch to west of fall line(base of More Bits) First pitch makes a good family top rope if you use an occasional runner and have a 70 meter rope


    Route starts on wall to right of large cleft in Toe. Descent is 4 rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take mending. Route goes to top of wall and is a good way to get to all West Tier routes


    Bolts and few small cams for 2nd-3rd pitches

    Comments on Cactus Kiss Add Comment
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    By Daniel Evans
    From: N Scottsdale, AZ
    Dec 12, 2015

    P1: 20 ft of 5.7/5.8 until you gain the arete and it is 5.2 to the anchors.

    P2: Hard to tell where the route goes from the top of P1. But it is a crack that is a little hard to see from the anchor at your 12 o'clock. The crack has bushes in the first half and is unusable for gear or jamming. Climb the suspect face holds to the right to gain a splitter finger crack (5.4) for another 10 ft. From here if you look up and left you can see the anchor at the top of P2. Find the best route through all the bushes to make the final face moves past one bolt to an anchor.

    P3: Go up past bolts to a ledge. Move right to a 3-4 ft vertical crack leading up to a suspect coffee table sized flake that forms a triangle shape at the top. CAUTION: THIS FLAKE FLEXED AND CREAKED WHEN I PULLED ON IT. It is definitely going to come off just a matter of time. Take extra care to not crank on it. This move (what gives this climb its 5.8 rating) can be protected to a certain extent but since the only decent rock is at the base of the ledge any fall at the crux would result in you decking.

    Me and my partner thought this climb was a bomb. Recommend just avoiding. Juice wasnt worth the squeeze.

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