Cactus Connection
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Blake Herrington, Chris Weidner April 4, 2012 |
Page Views: | 5,449 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Apr 15, 2012 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Cactus Connection is located on the far right side of the Aeolian Wall, about 100 feet below the notch between Cactus Flower Tower and Mt. Wilson. It is the rightmost route on Mt. Wilson. As the name implies, it's a spectacular finish to any summit route on Cactus Flower Tower. The crux second pitch is superb and easily makes this route worth doing.
From the summit of Cactus Flower Tower scramble and downclimb to the notch between CFT and Mt. Wilson. The final move involves a leap across a chasm (belay recommended). Rappel 70 feet to the east off a small tree to a flat area beneath the northeast face of Mt. Wilson.
P1: Traverse left through talus and trees aiming for the base of two parallel and splitter thin cracks. Climb a short, steep section to a small ledge with a tree and a wide, left-facing corner. 5.6, 100 feet.
P2: Ascend the offwith corner for about 30 feet until it is possible to face climb left toward a bush and the base of a thin, right-leaning crack. Jam the finger crack to a stance, then leave the widening crack for a perfect hand crack eight feet to the left. Follow this to a stance in a chimney/pod and belay. 5.11b, 130 feet
P3: Climb the right-facing corner and the crack on the right to a ledge beneath a brown, right-leaning corner. Step left around an arĂȘte and follow a curving crack and blocky ledges to the second of two pine trees and belay. Small gear useful. 5.10a, 130 feet
Wander about 600 vertical feet to the summit of Mt. Wilson, climbing several short and exposed fifth-class sections along the way. (45 minutes)
From the summit of Cactus Flower Tower scramble and downclimb to the notch between CFT and Mt. Wilson. The final move involves a leap across a chasm (belay recommended). Rappel 70 feet to the east off a small tree to a flat area beneath the northeast face of Mt. Wilson.
P1: Traverse left through talus and trees aiming for the base of two parallel and splitter thin cracks. Climb a short, steep section to a small ledge with a tree and a wide, left-facing corner. 5.6, 100 feet.
P2: Ascend the offwith corner for about 30 feet until it is possible to face climb left toward a bush and the base of a thin, right-leaning crack. Jam the finger crack to a stance, then leave the widening crack for a perfect hand crack eight feet to the left. Follow this to a stance in a chimney/pod and belay. 5.11b, 130 feet
P3: Climb the right-facing corner and the crack on the right to a ledge beneath a brown, right-leaning corner. Step left around an arĂȘte and follow a curving crack and blocky ledges to the second of two pine trees and belay. Small gear useful. 5.10a, 130 feet
Wander about 600 vertical feet to the summit of Mt. Wilson, climbing several short and exposed fifth-class sections along the way. (45 minutes)
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