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Mescalito
Routes Sorted
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Bed of Nails T 
Black Widow Hollow T 
Bloodline T 
C11H17NO3 T 
Cat in the Hat T 
Cat in the Phat T 
Centerfold T 
Chasing Shadows T 
Cookie Monster T 
Crunchy Cat T 
Dark Shadows T 
Dark Shadows (Full) T 
Deep Space T 
Edge Dressing T,S 
Excellent Adventure T 
Extra Credit T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Left of Disco T,S 
Mescalito - Original Route T 
Mescalito - South Face T 
Negro Blanco T 
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OB Button T 
Parental Guidance T 
Pauligk Pillar T 
Pauline's Pentacle T 
Peyote Power T 
Pine Nuts T 
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Risky Business T 
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 
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Slot Machine T 
Splitting Hares T 
This Ain't No Disco T,S 
Too Many Tantrums T 
Unknown (Thing 1) T 
Walker Spur, The T 
Wasp, The T 
Welcome to Red Rocks T 
When A Stranger Calls T 
Y2K T 

C11H17NO3 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Bob Logerquist, John Willams
Page Views: 2,353
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route follows a corner/flake system up the east face of the Mescalito. Start at two parallel cracks 75' south of a huge left facing corner.

P1 Follow either crack over a low bulge, via good face holds, up into a chimney. Layback and stem up the chimney, using the crack in the right corner, to a ledge with bushes(optional belay). Hand traverse left into the corner and build a belay. For the left-corner anchor, a couple very small micro-cams might help as well as climbing up a move or two to place a reassuringly larger piece. 180' 5.7

P2 Upward via flakes and the large right facing corner. Continue up crack on right. Finally, move right under the roof and up into the chimney/cave. Belay from the cave.

P3 From the cave go up the low-angle right-facing corner. Exit left after a white bulge, via cracks and plates, eventually reaching Cat in the Hat.

Either rappel Cat in the Hat or continue upward to the summit.

Protection 

A standard rack plus a #4 and 4.5 would be helpful.


Photos of C11H17NO3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One option for the hand traverse:  direct aid.
BETA PHOTO: One option for the hand traverse: direct aid.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mescaline (C11H17NO3)
BETA PHOTO: Mescaline (C11H17NO3)

Comments on C11H17NO3 Add Comment
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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

When we did this route, we mistakenly followed the corner to its top. We continued up and to the left and slung a large bush. One long rappel, with two ropes, down a steep face to another bush. This rappel leads to a horn with slings and rings. From there, two ropes and a little down climbing put us just up gully from the start of "Cat in the Hat". The route was on good rock and protected well. I found some moves hard and scary for its original 5.5 rating.
By Jason D. Martin
Apr 26, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I climbed this route today and found it to be nothing less than an "adventure climb." It often ascends flaring chimneys and includes a couple of hard to protect traverses. It was definately a fun climb, but it was also significantly more difficult and dangerous than we expected.

It amazes me that the route was ever considered a 5.5 climb. I felt that if you stayed on route that it clocked in at about 5.8, and that if you got off route the rating climbed up to about 5.9.

There were definately tricky sections on dangerous rock. The route always had enough protection, but it was not always easy to identify. As a result, this route should not be considered by beginning level leaders.

This route is a great adventure for an experienced team. The feature you climb is definately aesthetic and the climbing is interesting. If you're looking for an adventure, there's one to be found here.

Jason

By Mark B
Mar 24, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

There were at least two moves on the first pitch (i.e. pulling over the lower roof and the hand traverse near the top) that we felt were in the 5.8+ or possibly 5.9 range. On the P1 hand traverse (about 20'), we found essentially no sizeable foot holds; perhaps they have broken off thereby changing the difficulty of the route... On the second pitch, the step left out of the corner and onto the face (up and left from just above the detached flake) was ADVENTUROUS with uncertain pro! Further up, moving from the lower part of the "mid pitch chimney" right into the "shallow grove" you'll find a few "mid-sized" loose blocks and challenging pro (both contributing to what we felt were a few moves of 5.8+R or maybe even 5.9). Finally, we felt the right moving under cling / face traverse into the upper chimney of P2 was also in the realm of 5.8.

Enjoy!
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Have done this enjoyable route twice. It'd be nice if the below were in the description ...

Just above the initial flakes on P2, one can stay in the corner for some enjoyable and protectable climbing. It may even be 5.7 depending on ability.

Also, the described P2 is 160 feet - from just after the hand traverse to the belay cave after traversing up and right.

The described P3 ending does not match Handren's but we have done it as a fourth pitch (i.e., "Exit left after a white bulge, via cracks and plates, eventually reaching Cat in the Hat").

For Handren's P3 (~140 feet), stay in the cleft of the gigantic flake, chimneying the wide for a bit before hiking into a kind of large cave or alcove at climber's left. Stem up a few moves and reach for a hidden crack to exit at a belay ledge on the far side of this alcove (~5.5 with scant/no pro). From this end of P3, it is about 20 or 30 feet climber's left to the end of the first rap of Cat in the Hat.