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C Word 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 290', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Silas Miller & Erik Brooks - June 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Silas Miller on Nov 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Varied climbing, extreme exposure and good pro come together in this excellent climb. It is possible to rap from any of the anchors.

P1: 120’ 5.10a Climb over a bulge and into a small right facing corner where a #0.4 can be placed. Easily continue up the slab (2b’s) to the tree ledge. Climb the strenuous and enjoyable offwidth/chimney past 2 bolts (crux) where a slab leads to the bolt anchor.

Variation 5.9 Instead of heading up the offwidth/chimney, climb the left facing corner crack to join C Legs or continue up C Word. Awkward but interesting moves climb through the thin to wide and back to thin crack. Rope drag is an issue when joining back up with C Word.

P2: 100’ 5.11- Clip a bolt off the anchor and climb into the enjoyable left slanting flake. Follow the wildly exposed flake to the end of the foot ledge. Just above and out of reach is a crucial yet bomber #2 placement that protects the final crux moves. Large blocks lead to the bolt anchor. Do not follow the two bolts directly under the finer grained roof, they go nowhere.

P3: 70’ 5.8 An enjoyable slab traverse (2b’s) leads to the bolt anchor of C Legs. From here, either rap or continue onto the easy slab above.

Location 

Central area

Protection 

Single rack to BD #2, C3's


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