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C. Middle and West Walls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back on Track T 
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 
Buffalo Soldier S 
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 
Offwidth Corner T,TR 
Old Pirates S 
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 
Small Axe S 
Three Little Birds S 

C. Middle and West Walls Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015


48° | 38°

50° | 36°

58° | 40°

62° | 43°

61° | 45°
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Tier topo. (c) Josh Pollock.


The Middle Wall is the widest of the four sections of the Lower Tier and is characterized by an undercut bottom, which gives the climbs their unusual feel-- the cruxes are all down low. On some of these climbs, just getting off the ground is the crux. Hanging at the top anchors on the Middle Wall offers a nice position and lovely views (and good photos of climbers on the West Wall).

Separated from the Middle Wall only by a short break, the West Wall boasts the first modern climbs established at the Tiers, and it has the same brand of quality face climbing guarded by fierce starts. From the top of the West Wall, views of climbers at the top of climbs on the Middle Wall (and vice versa) are inspiring.


AB. Buffalo Soldier, 10-, 1p, 75', gear & bolts.
B. Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion), 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
C. The Belay Brothers Bounce Back, 8+, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
DC. Please Pick Up Your Trash, 12, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
E. Offwidth Corner, 9, 1p, 40', gear.
F. Blunt Arete to Exit, 9 PG-13, 2p, 80', gear.
G. Small Axe, 11+, 1p, 75', bolts.
H. Old Pirates, 11, 1p, 75', bolts.
I. Three Little Birds, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
j. Back on Track, 8 PG-13, 1p, 65', gear.

Getting There 

The main approach trail for the Lower Tier ends at the left side of the Middle Wall. To reach the West Wall, simply turn right and walk along the base. It is narrow, especially behind Belay Brothers and Three Little Birds, so be courteous about passing behind belayers on these routes.

To access the top anchors of the climbs on the West and Middle Walls, continue past the end of the West Wall and find the willow-choked 3rd class gully behind the wall. There are actually two parallel gullies there — both will work, but the left one is more direct to the top anchors of Three Little Birds, while the right one is more direct for accessing the other climbs.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for C. Middle and West Walls:
The Belay Brothers Bounce Back   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Three Little Birds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Buffalo Soldier   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Old Pirates   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Small Axe   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Please Pick Up Your Trash   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in C. Middle and West Walls

Featured Route For C. Middle and West Walls
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck, 7/13/2013.

Old Pirates 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Colorado : Golden : ... : C. Middle and West Walls
Balancy moves into a tension-y stance lead to a hand jam and a strenuous pull over the lip (crux) and then a thin and interesting face above that stays challenging. This is good stuff....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of C. Middle and West Walls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: West Wall topo photo.
BETA PHOTO: West Wall topo photo.

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