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Mount Athabasca
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L to R R to L Alpha
Bypass T 
North Face Var. T 
North Glacier T 
Regular North Face T 


YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-

Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 4500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3- Mod. Snow [details]
Season: summer
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Alexander Toshev on Jul 12, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Athabasca north face and bypass options to left sk...


A moderate sustained route.


After crossing the glacier under the Silverhorn and the North Face, the route goes on directly up to the left of the face toward the ridge. This section consists of 4 - 6 pitches of 40-50% snow up one of the several possible gullies. After getting on the ridge the first couple of pitches are snow, followed by a right rock traverse on the face and an ice gully leading to the ridge again. From this point on it is rock climbing and walking on the ridge.

One goes down via the Silverhorn false summit and the shoulder behind it.


It is limestone with OK rock. One can use rock protection on the ridge, screws for the ice gully and screws or pickets for the snow sextion.

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