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ByPass 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Greg Loomis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 206
Submitted By: gloomis on Nov 3, 2013

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Description 

For all of you Moore's aficionados who've done every route that they can at the North End, this one's for you. I put up a new route called ByPass (~12a PG13) at the North End today. Start on VD and climb through the second crux to the black band of rock, move up and left to place your gear and pull the second roof as usual. Now move left instead of moving right to the good rest and crack system on VD. After moving left, pull another roof and then traverse left ~5ft along a horizontal with gear (.4 stopper & yellow TCU). This will bring you to a clean shield of rock peppered with crimpers (just right of boogie's anchors). Balance your way up the slightly slabby face to reach another ~50ft of 5.10 terrain with ample gear. The fixed anchor (with orange cordelette) is slightly right of Boogie's anchors and 30 ft higher than the VD anchor. Tallest route on the wall, 60m rope required.

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