|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Chris Falkenstein & Dave Hitchcock, 1979|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 with updates from kovar Pa|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on By Hook or By Crook||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Indeed, one of the best 5.11's...
...didn't think the start was too bad, seemed to protect very well with .75 cams. Maybe rockfall made the clip more powerful (:?) Definitely a "get it on jones" sequence; do not stall.
Bring your roof/lb game for the second pitch. Small rack but mostly draws and slings is the name of the game.
Don't stop at the original anchor (see JJ's comments). It's wild but safe to go to the next stance which is much better for the second pitch.
By peachy spohn
Aug 31, 2008
|The beginning can be protected safely, as 426 says. I used a #2 metolious. Also, you can link pitches 1 & 2 with a 70m rope for a great long pitch. Make sure to use long runners. From the second pitch anchors you can lower to the first anchors.|
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Sep 8, 2008
|You can easily rap to the ground from the top pitch 2 with a single 70m rope. As of 9/7/08, there's a fixed #5 stopper at the roof, so go do the route! It's like a sport climb with that thing there.|
By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 24, 2009
|no fixed stopper there now, but there's a bolt nearby and the gear is easy enough to place. Also, we got down from the second pitch anchor in one rappel with a single sixty meter rope... barely. The third pitch looks good... wish I would have gone to the top.|
Sep 4, 2015
|First crux was tough but the climbing after that was fun. I belayed at the anchors in the alcove, which I assume is the anchor for Heat Sensitive. The next pitch was rad too! The shallow corner and crux were really fun, I wish it could have been longer.|
By Thomas Bukowski 1
Oct 10, 2015
|FYI, with a single, uncut 70m, with rope stretch, you can rap pitch 3 comfortably to pitch 2's anchors, despite SuperTopo saying p3 is 130 feet. Another rap gets you to the ground. Amazing route, amazing movement!|