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By Cracky S 
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Hankerin' in the Midsection S 
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By Cracky 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: D Sharp on Jun 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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After the 1st crux.

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  • Description 

    This is the hardest route at the crag. D'Antonio calls this an 11b, but both my partner and I agree that it felt much harder. Two cruxes (third of the way up, and the very top) will keep you engaged.

    The first few bolts go up a large, distinctive corner with a featureless slab on the left. Start from a little rock outcropping (better to belay from here, than from the angling, sandy spot below), clip the first bolt, and get established in the corner using a cool, sharp side-pull in the crease of the corner. Stem, palm, and smear your way up this corner for the next 40ish feet. Pulling the small overlap about half way up is a crux (first of two). We though it went about 11-. Move up and right out of the corner and be rewarded with an almost no-hands rest.

    The fun part of the climb is now behind you, and it now time to get down to business. This second part may be a bit of a sandbag at 11b, but we may not have found the perfect beta. Start up the face using some side-pulls on the right and some rather small crimps on the headwall. The last bolt is a desperate, out-of-view clip, which may be hard to reach for some, and it only gets harder afterwards. Funky crimps, side-pulls (which all seem to face the wrong way), and pinches lead the way up. Feet are close to non-existent to make this interesting. Getting to the anchor proper is the definite crux of the route (second of two). You'll either need to clip from a very strenuous sidepull, or move past the anchor to a decent rail way behind it, and clip at thigh level. It is weird at best.

    Neither one of us could pull the last moves required to gain the anchor, so I'm not sure of the rating (11c/d?).

    Location 

    This is the second row of bolts that you will see after arriving at the crag from the right.

    Protection 

    7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


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